Lash-Ed Issue 4 October 2019 - Page 7

However it is not just the style you want to use correctly but also the correct curl and lash direction. The diagrams below explain the style, curl and lash direction to use whether you are correcting wide set or close set:

Wide Set Eyes:

Close Set Eyes:

This is just one aspect you need to consider when eye styling. You also need to consider the shape of someone’s eyes and their face shape, again put the wrong style on them and you could accentuate a feature you don’t want to! So the shape of the eyes you need to consider are they:

Almond shape – if they are balanced and aren’t wide or close set then you can do anything on them!

Round eyes – you want to soften their eyes so using flatter curls like a B and C curl. If they are close set then do a Cat (providing outer lashes can support). If slightly wide set then do a kitten, the reason you wouldn’t choose a rounding or dolly if doing a round eye that is wide set is because they can make a round eye look even rounder and give quite a startled look!

Drooping outer/corners (sad eye) – DO NOT ever do a CAT on this eye you will only accentuate their sad eyes! Consider if they are wide or close set and choose a style accordingly. The difference with styling a drooping outer corner is you need to use a strong curl on the outer to add lift and keep lengths short on the very outer. Length draws the eye outwards and elongates! Use CC & D curls in the drooping area.

Deep Set – the client’s eyes almost look like they are set back in their head. You need length on these clients, add 1‐2mm on length extra to counteract the mm lost through the deep set nature of the eye.

Feline eyes – do anything on these! Consider whether they are wide or close set. I personally think a Kitten looks fab on them and accentuates their feline eyes!

The last thing I am going to discuss to consider is the client’s face shape, you need to think about whether they have a long or wide face.

As you can see there are lots of elements to consider when styling your clients, and there might be more than one feature you need to take into account. If there is two features that contradict one another for styling then what I advise students is to go with the most prominent feature to disguise.

Frankie Widdows

www.eyelashexcellence.com

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