Lash-Ed Issue 4 October 2019 - Page 18

Lashes, Colours & Styling

Today we talk about making eyelashes as art. There are no limits to art. There is no right or wrong. It is a matter of taste about what you want to design and consider is beautiful. I 'll introduce you to my art with my step-by-step guide.

Lash mapping: First, divide regions.

Where the lines are drawn, place the

colored lashes first. Just pick up 3

lashes at the same without fanning

them. Then create fans in another

colour and place inbetween them.

When the lash work was finished, I added a self-adhesive LED light strip on the eyelid. I hid the cable with the lash flowers in one image and with jewelery for the other. They can all be ordered on Amazon. I hope you enjoyed my work.

If you have any questions, please contact me on


By Dominique Graupner

Founder of Lashes by Dominique & London Lash Pro - Trainer

I have noticed that techs are lacking the knowledge in styling, mapping, designing tailor made sets. I have been in eyelash industry for 5 years and my “geekyness” still has never left me. Let me share some tips on how I achieve great styling results for each person. There are 3 basic styles that most of us use:

Dolly Style - opens up the eyes. Make them look bigger. Great to use to create fake, more noticeable looks. Also looks great on some Asian eyes as it covers heavy lids and uplifts the appearance of eye shape. It also helps Droopy eyes but remember to look at the natural eyelash lengths too.

Cat / Foxy Style - stretches the eye. Makes the eyes look smaller. Gives the winged eyeliner glam look everyone desires. This style has to be learnt so I'll share tips on how to achieve that perfect “wing” look.

Squirrel / Kitten Style - combines the other 2 styles. Opens up and stretches the eye. I tell my students, “If you are unsure about how to style your client, you can’t go wrong with the squirrel style”. You still have to take care to find exactly where the most uplift has to be (max length) before you start lashing. Also pay attention to their brow. It looks beautiful when the most length falls right into the eyebrow arch.

How to style the perfect Cat Eye.

Firstly, you have to observe the natural eye shape. People usually like the “wing” look but not all of them can wear it well. Daily routines of makeup and eyeliner has become a habit so they are used to that look, even if it's not the best one for her. The Cat Style looks best on upturned eyes.

To create this beautiful wing effect set, find the end of the iris. This indicates where the longest lashes will start. Mark a dot on the lid or top of the brow. When client closes her eyes, you will still see it and be able to guide yourself.

The longest length doesn’t finish at the outer corner. Cut down 2-3 lengths. These areas can be very small and will blend in better with the maximum length.

For classic or Volume lashes, if you're lashing with 6 - 12 mm lengths, 12mm will be the longest but you finish with a 9mm on the outer corner.

To get to 12mm, we have to fit in another 6 lengths. Find the first lash - 6mm should be short enough so the baby lashes are not 'abused'. The 11mm area has to be quite close to the 12mm. The distance can be short, or not too wide.

You now have now the 6 and 11mm. We have

to fit 4 more lengths.

6 - 7mm lashes can be

short distances (sections),

8 - 10mm wider.

I train my students to keep

the short lashes for

longer distances (sections) on the mapping to achieve the “wing” GLAM effect.

If you know how

to mix the curls,

even better. Look

at the natural

lash growth –

upturned, curly,

downturned or

straight - choose

the appropriate


Cat eye styling


close set eyes

and will make the

eyes look wider


If you struggle with styling, it’s worth looking into decent training and invest in your knowledge. There's advanced styles too that can be combined in different ways, but again, we have to pay attention to natural features of each client as this will make you a great designer.

Enjoy creating your masterpieces.

Inese Stepanova

Training available in Bristol and Devon, U.K.

You're a Designer!