Lash-Ed Issue 4 October 2019 - Page 12

Styling tips

For this special styling edition, I thought I’d offer 10 tips on things that a lot of my experienced lash students found useful from their coaching sessions this year. They contradict how they’ve been taught or how they've working for years. They work for me, they now work for them and I hope that they’re useful to you too.

1. The dot mark the spot – or does it?

For lash stylists who are keen mappers and precision lovers, assessing where certain lengths or curls will be placed and where they change may be marked on the eyelid whilst their eyes are open. I use a water soluble eyeliner on the tip of a microbrush so it’s sanitary. A lot of students were taught or self-taught to place their dots closer to the brow. They then struggle to align the position of the dot or dots when the eyes are closed as they’re now some distance from the lid. Placing them close to the lash line leaves no room for doubt! This works for me, especially when I’m mixing curls and hiding a hood. I may plot where the curlier curls start and end so they are at the start and end of the hood as the hood position is lost when their eyes are closed and the fleshy skin is stretched and lying flat.

2. A Cat is this lash map, a Squirrel is that and a Dolly is this! Or is it?

In simple terms, we are thinking about where the longest lengths need to go and how much of the lash line they’ll occupy. Will they have a narrow section to complement an arched brow or will it be a big section because of the shape of the upper lid when their eyes are open? We also think about what the shortest length need to be. Then we consider the place / space those lengths will be along the lash line to create the desired shape.

I invite students to think about all the features that would influence where the longest lengths would be, e.g. middle (Dolly), half way to the outer corner (Squirrel) or close to the outer corner (Cat) as well as what the longest length could be. Some of these features include face shape, eye shape, eye setting, socket setting, lid features, brow setting, brow shape, overall symmetry, natural lash density, lash layers (close or spread out), lash direction (down turned, level, up turned) and their overall health and condition. If an eye is deep set or the lashes are shrouded by a hood or lid with no crease, then longer lengths may be necessary or your work will appear shorter or lost and less prominent – that’s if the naturals can cope with them. Otherwise, use finer ones to reduce the risk of overloading the naturals.

3. Are ‘handle bars’ a new trend? I’m seeing a lot of them!

Is it just me or is there a trend developing? I ask students who do my advanced, volume courses or coaching sessions to send me pictures of their work as I want to make sure that they’re ready before parting with their hard earned cash! I’m seeing more and more work this year where the lash lengths at the outer corner are extended so far out. The distance from the point of the outer corner to the last lash tip seems to be the distance matching about a quarter of the lash line. They remind me of moustache handles that stick out at each side like handle bars. The moment I discuss it with them, they then see it themselves and agree that it’s not the most flattering look for their client. I teach students to be more analytical, not critical, encouraging them to keep reflecting on every set they do. So what went well and why, what didn’t and why and in turn, what they will do differently next time. Perhaps in this case, reduce the lengths and perhaps the curl if they want elongation. More on this later!

4. Are those outers doing a back flip?

When using curlier curls like a CC or D at the outer corners, have you noticed a few of those curly lashes looking offset in your pictures, despite having placed them all at an even position to the lid line, say 90 degrees? Here’s one I did to demonstrate the point.

I used D curls with the longest

length being 12mm, moving

down to 9mm at the outer

corner. I also used shorter

8mm lashes on the upper layer

as this helps to prevent them

being conspicuous because

they're on a much higher

setting in the layers. I used the

same curl range, so a D curl.

You can see the lashes are

back flipping (as I call it!) at the

outer corner? I could have

avoided it if I had used lashes

that were less curly as well as

being shorter. It needs to be

both as shorter lashes in the

same curl range look curlier.

Even if you reduced the

lengths in the upper lash

layers, you’ll get that

noticeable back flip because

of the severity of the curl.

Here's an example of where I

have taken my own advice. the

outer corners are not turning

inwards - or back flipping!

5. Cats verses squirrels - no contest!

I find that a lot of students are trying to do the Cat eye styling on most of their clients. It’s either what they’re used to doing or what their clients want - rather than it being the style that would best suit their client! Lashing the longest lengths all the way to the outer corner is going to create that handle bar effect and draw attention