Lash-Ed Issue 3 October 2018 - Page 68

Adhesive matters

With Doug Schoon

Part 2

Doug is an internationally recognised scientist, author and educator with over 30 years' experience in the cosmetic, beauty and personal care industry.. He is a leading authority, known for his technical and regulatory work that has helped shape the beauty industry.

In May, Lash-Ed asked its readers, 'if you could ask an expert a question about your adhesive, what would it be?' Julie had a fantastic opportunity to put your questions to Doug. Here's what he had to say. . .

Is it possible for adhesive vapours to irritate the skin?

Generally no. With cyanoacrylate, it's a little different because you can get cyanoacrylate vapors in air and they can react with moisture in different places and that creates little small particles that can get into the air. So, it is possible.

However, it is not likely to occur if a source capture system is used. If people are having these problems, it’s generally because of the way that they are working.

. . keep your face away from the client's lashes . . shouldn’t put the glue ring directly under your nose

Cyanoacrylates are pretty safe materials that can be used safely. You should wear magnifying eye wear and keep your face away from the client's lashes. You shouldn’t put the glue ring directly under your nose. Your adhesive should be off to the side where it's not in your breathing zone. You're breathing zone in an invisible sphere that’s about the size of a beach ball in front of your mouth so you don’t want your glue near that space.

I was grateful for your Webinars with Jill (Heijligers-Peloquin) a couple of years ago when you talked about using N95 face masks rather than surgical masks. There are FFP3 and N99 masks being sued by lashers, are these okay?

Anything that’s N95 and over is fine to wear. An FFP2 is probably equal to an N90 which is probably okay too. I would recommend an N95 or FFP3 mask. You can use an N99 too. You don't need a World War 2 gas mask that have cartridges as that’s overkill!

If you have proper ventilation then you don’t really need a mask.

68 | Safety

The mask is not going to protect you very much because cyanoacrylate is a vapour like air and you can’t keep the air out of the mask or the cyanoacrylate vapours. It will slow it down a little bit though.

It is much better to sit back further, look at where your glue is being placed and make sure that it is outside of the beach ball distance from your mouth and maybe off to the side and get a source capture ventilation system.

Some lashers have been trained to Patch Test by placing the adhesive directly onto the skin. Some insurers insist on it too (especially in the UK). When I have dropped adhesive onto my skin, it has burned. What are your thoughts?

Exactly. I'd like to talk to the insurance companies that require people to do that as they are creating a potential lawsuit for themselves. You should not do that.

If you suspect that your client might be allergic to your glue, harden up a piece and put a piece against the skin with a piece of tape

If a dermatologist is going to patch test you, do you think they’re going to put glue on your arm? No, they're not going to put 100% of it on your skin. You can make someone allergic from the patch test so it's not a wise idea to do that. If you suspect that your client might be allergic to your glue, harden up a piece and put a piece against the skin with a piece of tape. They could have a reaction from the tape and you wouldn't know the difference because you’re not trained to do patch testing like Dermatologists. If you think your client has an allergic reaction then don’t service them.

Suppliers describe the particular temperature and humidity range that their adhesives work best in. What is it that makes them all very different?

They're not just cyanoacrylate, they have a lot of other things in them. There’s other additives and there’s many different types of cyanoacrylates that react in different ways and have different speeds. So, the product can be designed to set a certain speed. It can be designed to have certain flexibility. So, if your adhesive is setting too slowly and you have all the conditions right for