Lash-Ed Issue 3 October 2018 - Page 35

Prepare for Amazing Retention!

By Kim Helgesen-Fuentes

Hello, I'm Kim Helgesen-Fuentes, founder, owner/operator of Estilo Lash Inc. I have worked in the beauty industry for half a decade now. Before starting my home business, I was working as a medic in the gas and oil industry up in Northern Canada. This work was okay but it kept me away from my family. I felt like I was missing something. I’ve always enjoyed making people feel beautiful and special and have always appreciated creating beautiful things.

My first experience with eyelash extensions left me feeling so excited! It wasn’t long before I turned my excitement into action and my passion for people and beauty became my home business in 2012. I fell in love with eyelash artistry. I was happy and busy running my own business and having my own space and clientele. I began to advertise more extensively and soon found that people were starting to ask for my advice and training. It was at this point I decided to become an accredited trainer and to start my own brand of products and line called Estilo Lash Inc. My goal is to help people improve their skills and become amazing lash technicians. I think it's of the utmost importance for one to love what you do.

I would like to talk about lash prep and what way I choose to do so and have nothing short but amazing retention with 90% of my clients.

You are going to want to have your client’s natural lashes completely clean and free from any oils or residue for there to be a good bond to form with the extension. The active ingredient in the eyelash extension adhesive is a substance that cures/polymerizes when it meets water or alcohol. When you prep the natural lash, you should make sure that the lash is not completely dry. The lash adhesive will work better if you have some moisture present to allow it to cure properly. Some of the ways you can prep your client’s lashes at the very 1st appointment and during fills is:

Protein remover / Primer: Protein remover pads are useful and will come in boxes as a thin wet cloth for a one time disposable use. Primers will come in a spray, liquid and gel form They often contain a small amount of alcohol as well, which will help to rid of any bacteria that may be present. They are a great product for use before lash application. Depending on how oily your client is you may want to prime the natural lashes before application. Keep in mind this will strip the lash of moisture and saline maybe the better option for your adhesive to have a better bond with the natural lashes.

Saline: Saline has always been thought of as a relatively cheap and an effective way to prep and clean the lashes. It was said to help prevent and slow bacteria growth while leaving enough moisture for a good bond, keep in mind that some saline can cause a buildup of salts on the lashes if not properly rinsed and result in having poor retention due to a weaker bond. Saline is now being recognized in not having an effect at all on being a good candidate for lash prep.

Hot water: Distilled hot water was also thought of a great way to help to open the cuticle of the lash which in turn will help the adhesive to adhere to the natural lash. Be aware that your water is not too hot so you are not burning your client’s skin. Use an applicator or a micro-brush to apply the hot water to the lash prior to application. It has also been found to not have as good of an effect as we all once thought so before.

Foaming cleanser: An oil free foaming

cleanser can be used to remove any trace

of makeup that is left on the lashes prior to

application. You can apply a small amount

of cleanser to the lashes and work it in

with an applicator, micro-brush, or a soft

makeup brush. It is important that the

lashes are thoroughly cleaned

afterwards with rinsing the foaming

cleanser off before lash application.

What do you do at the end of the

procedure? When I started my lash career

I was trained to only have the clients wait

up to 5 minutes with their eyes still closed

and then have them open the eyes. Yes, I

know now and I’m totally not down with this

form of practice on how to end the session

and have your clients feel the utmost discomfort when we want our clients to feel absolute comfort.

I then learned about the use of a Nanomister and how very fine particles of water vapors can help to cure the lashes at the end of the service. It also provides an additional sense of soothing comfort by helping to reduce the fumes that can cause irritation and allergic reactions. It seemed to be a good choice and most clients enjoy it.

Now let’s fast forward a few

years. What I have started to

do for over just about 2

years is a lash wash at the

beginning of the service

prior to application and then

wait about 5 mins after

application and do a post cleansing wash at the end of the service with the same lash foaming cleanser. This will ensure that you are fully curing the adhesive before your clients have left your shop, spa or studio. It will cut back if not stop all remaining lingering fumes to prevent further irritation, while helping to remove the fume molecules that may have settled on your clients eyelids during application.

Also at this point it is a good way how to start training your clients and teaching them the importance of lash health and cleanliness (more so for now clients) and this by far has been the best process that I have used in my career as a lash artist. I have clients come back every 2-5 week with 40-60% of lashes still on.

I hope that this little tip can help you all in your lash careers and help you to continue to grow as artists.

Much love Kim x

Kim Helgesen-Fuentes

Founder/lead training director of Estilo Lash Inc.

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