Lash-Ed Issue 3 October 2018 - Page 15

actually took a lot of brain power which I love as it challenged me from the normal lashes I do (which I can probably do in my sleep!) and really allowed me to get creative. It was vital that I knew about lashing in layers for me to create this set, again something which you should learn before going onto volume as your basic volume training will not teach you this. You can also achieve a similar effect by capping different curls and colours of one extension, so there are lots of options, just let the creativity flow.

This picture is another set

of mine using the classic

skill of capping.

I created my classic set in D

curl black lashes and then

capped off the tips with

7-8mm in 0.07 in green lashes.

Again I think this is a beautiful

set which was really fun to do

and enhances her naturally

stunning green eyes!

Another great classic

skill for adding

texture, density and

darkness is


This is where you use 3

different lengths per


This photo is a

feathered set I

created which shows

the density and

fullness this technique


Your basic initial volume training teaches you how calculate what volume a natural lash can support and to pick up multiple lash extensions to create a perfect bouquet and placement of your fan, you might get some basic styling also but this is likely to be it. Learning the art of creating a symmetrical fan and picking it up is so very difficult that you can’t teach other things in this day. This is why it is vital that you obtain all the valuable lashing skills prior to going on to volume so being able to:

Style correctly - this is a huge subject in itself as it is not just

about the eyes i.e close set/wide set, droopy outers, hooded

lids, monolids, round eyes/almond eye, deep set eyes etc but

also the face shape, brow shape, strength and length of the

natural lash, curl of the natural lash, and clients will have

multiple things going on to correct and balance. You could

do the best set of volume fans but get the styling in correct

and it can look awful and just draw your attention to the bad

styling rather than the beautiful fan work.

Mixing curls - the wrong curl on somebody can look dreadful,

also the art of mixing curls to get a seamless transition can

be difficult, so master this at classics to make it easier when

you go on to volume.

Stacking and capping - if you can’t do this with one extension

you will not be able to do it with a volume fan!

Use of colour - knowing what colours to use and where to

place colour to enhance the clients beautiful eye colour.

Impeccable placement, direction and uniformity - if you can’t

do this at classic you will find it even more difficult with

volume. With classic lashing you do have the ability to move

the extension in place if it isn’t quite right by releasing your

tweezer just before the adhesive has cured and push him in

place you absolutely cannot do this with volume. You have to

hold that volume fan in place for several seconds until the

adhesive has cured and so if you haven’t quite placed him

right you can not rectify this because if you let go of your fan

before he is cured then he will close and be ruined!

Lashing in layers - being able to distinguish layers within the

natural lashes and lash them with correct length and curl to

create that perfect top line effect.

Lash mapping - you should be able to map out your styling on

your pads before learning the art of volume.

Lash styles - be confident in creating different styles i.e,

kitten, dolly, rounding, Kim K etc.

So if you are classic trained and thinking what is the next

step then I would strongly suggest taking an advanced

classic skill course whether this is in eye styling, skill building,

advanced classic, workshops in advanced skills/styling.

Master all the classic skills first so you build those

foundations to be the best technician possible. Think of it this

way in order to build a long lasting durable house you need

strong, solid and stable foundations, each layer is built on

top of one another, your lashing career and skills have the

same ethos, build those solid foundations and layers of

knowledge and skills and you will succeed and develop to be

an awesome lash technician.

Frankie Widdows

Lashes | 15