Braai the Beloved Country by Jean Nel
Reviewed by Nikki Swanepoel
I
n the introduction to this book,
Heritage Day (24 September) is
acknowledged as National Braai
Day. This touchy point has been
publicly debated ad nauseam
(hmm, not a good word to kick off a
review on a book about good food
with). Serious traditionalist are angered
by the “braaivleis, rugby, sunny skies
and any-kind-of-bakkie” supporters
and accuse them of hijacking a day
which should be dedicated to serious
political introspection.
Publisher
Jacana’s choice of title may arguably
also be seen as facetious to the point
of being politically incorrect. However,
Jean Nel launches into his recipes with
a carefree gusto that will most likely
have most but the sourest of critics
forgiving him gladly. Certainly, Jean has
a point – most people in South Africa
enjoy a good braai. Even vegans enjoy
the primal satisfaction of preparing
food over coals.
Divided into different sections,
depending on method of fire (open
flames, direct/indirect cooking on/
away from the coals) and main or side
dishes (some of the latter prepared
away from the fire), the book begins
with a short introduction about
preparing the fire, and ends with some
handy tips, notes on braai tools, kitchen
basics and maintenance of equipment.
A nifty index allows easy reference.
While several exotic recipes tempt,
many are quintessentially ‘Souf
African’, and there are some with a
twist. The more traditional recipes
include west coast snoek glazed with
apricot jam, roosterkoek (to be eaten
with fresh farm butter, homemade
apricot jam and grated cheddar
cheese – droooool!) and a recipe for
Bo-Kaap tomato relish. More creative
alternatives include venison loin with
moskonfyt, ostrich burger, pork belly
with apricot jam glaze and a brandy
and Coke sirloin. Coca-Cola is also
an ingredient in Jean’s tangy sweet
basting sauce. (As kids in the late
sixties we were thrilled when my mom
was deemed ‘revolutionary’ when she
introduced leg of pork roasted in Coke
to the traditional Sunday lunch spread.)
For a more adventurous recipe try
roasting a whole turkey in a kettle
braai (you have a long time to practise
for next Christmas!).
Booze flows with abundance – chorizo
sausages and Spanish beef fillets are
doused with sherry, boozy beer and
balsamic vinegar drenches glazed
onions, a chicken is spread-eagled over
a beer can, of course where there’s
beer there must be beer bread, also
a cheese and onion cider bread, and
sparkling rosé tarts up a redcurrant
sauce for the roast pork loin.