The Medina of Tunis A stroll out of time |
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The Medina of Tunis , a |
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traditional town in the |
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heart of the capital , |
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remains undoubtedly a |
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living memory as well |
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as the beating heart of |
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Tunisian life . This timeless |
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venue has survived albeit |
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the modern life . It is |
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today one of the major |
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touristic places . But |
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the discreet Medina has |
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not yet unveiled all its |
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secrets .
Origins of the Medina The Arab city , founded at the end of the 7th century , was built around the Ezzitouna ( olive tree ) mosque . The architecture of the Medina is very different from that of Western cities . Here , there are no orthogonal streets or wide gates , but winding alleys and dwellings with wooden lattice , which are discovered by pacing this place out of time , away from the crowd .
Discovering the Medina Walking through the Kasbah , a fortress built in the first half of the 13th century , and now the address of the main ministries as well as “ l ’ Hôtel de Ville ” of Tunis , the capital ’ s municipality . When you are engulfed in one of the adjacent streets , you cannot ignore the stoned walls of the Ezzitouna mosque , the heart of the Medina , and the starting point of all its streets . You then discover a tangle of alleys with uneven widths leading towards Echawachia souk , then towards El Berka ( goldsmith ’ s souk ). Not far , the stalls decorated with a thousand
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and one fabrics between djellabas , sefsari , berber plaids and carpets from every Tunisian region . Walking along the streets of the Medina , it is common to catch a glimpse through the door ajar of a shop , of a craftsman hammering leather , or through the window of a house , of a family gathered around tea , to marvel at an old house converted into a café like El Mrabet , a restaurant like Dar El Jeld or a guesthouse like Dar el Medina . Along those alleys , you end up reaching two suburbs : Bab Souika in the North with its Arab architecture and its numerous cafes , and Bab Dzira in the South , where you can enjoy a delicious local fricassé ( salty doughnut ). Walking along leather and wood accessories , your promenade ends when you are facing a gigantic gate , centring Port de France , the famous old square marking the junction between the Medina and the European city . You are back to the new times !
Ezzitouna mosque , the heart of the Medina Hypotheses about the origin of this
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appellation are numerous . Some say that this is due to the presence , for a long time , of an olive tree in the centre of the patio . But the most probable hypothesis would be that the mosque was built on the site of an ancient olive grove . It is literally the heart of the city , the starting point of the arteries that lead to the main gates . Although it is the second largest mosque in Tunisia ( after that of Kairouan ), it extends over nearly 5000 square metres . Great religious festivals are celebrated with its walls . Once you access its large courtyard , you will be amazed at its 184 antique columns coming mostly from Carthage site .
The Khaireddine Palace Situated not far from the headquarters of the Association de Sauvegarde de la Médina ( Medina conservation society ), this palace is integrated into the city ’ s restored track ( which extends from Ezzitouna Mosque to Pacha Street ). Built around 1860 by Minister at that time Khair-Eddin Pasha , this palace ’ s architecture enjoyed an
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1 . Ruelle des artisans I Artisans alley I حارة الحرفيين
2 . Ruelle du quartier d ’ habitation de la médina de Tunis I Medina of Tunis , residential alley I حارة الحي
السكن في مدينة تونس
assured colonial influence . Hence the disctinctive , monumental style combining traditional ornamentation with wide openings and Western decorations . This building steeped in history served many purposes during more than a century : a court , a primary school , to become in 1999 the Museum of Tunis . It now houses exhibitions of Tunisian and foreign artists . The palace is an a must-see site of the Medina . I
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