June 2017 Magazines - Page 74

Haute Spot More than a Bottle of Bubbly- Prosecco Fresh Italian Kitchen By Aly Wagonseller SO OFTEN I THINK OF ITALIAN CUISINE AS HEAVY. Pasta laden with hearty meat and tomato sauce and finished with layers of cheesy goodness generally equates to comfort food that, while obviously a draw to the masses, isn’t always my cup of cappuccino. And, while many great Italian restaurants in our area do offer lighter cuisine, it’s always a plus to have choices close to home. That’s what makes Prosecco Fresh Italian Kitchen, located at 8878 So. Eastern Ave., Suite 104, a welcome addition to our neighborhood dining scene. They’re offering up a selection of regional Italian cuisine designed to please diners of varying tastes, whether pasta, fish or otherwise. Taking over a location that started as a casual pizza den, then became a small Italian chain restaurant that eventually fell flat, Prosecco has been transformed into a bright, mod- ern and sophisticated space. An open view kitchen framed by an eclectic collage of black and white photos ranging from a fork full of spaghetti to Sophia Loren in her heyday, adds cosmopolitan flair, with red glass chandeliers and drum lighting, sunny yellow banquettes, and industrial touches making for a visually stunning space that’s perfect for lunch, date night or otherwise. A new chef is equally impressive; trained in Castelfranco Veneto, Italy, Chef Daniele Dotto comes to Vegas via the Ritz Carlton in Venice, gigs in Spain, Valencia and Barcelona, as well as both Sous and Executive Chef designations at Zeffirino in the Venetian and Dal Toro Ristorante at the Palazzo Hotels. His skills for making house made pastas and sauces are legit, but it’s his deft hand at preparing Chilean Sea Bass that has me hooked. 74 We started our meal with a beautifully plated Carpaccio Cipriani: razor thin slices of tender beef and parmesan cheese topped with peppery arugula, a light drizzle of olive oil and the pop of salty capers. A light bite packed with max- imum flavor. The Insalata Prosecco was eventually chosen after agonizing between it and the Ruby, a favorite beet salad with goat cheese and caramelized pecans, served with honey Dijon vinaigrette. The Prosecco selection was equally as nice; filled with sweet chunks of cucumber, flavorful heir- loom tomatoes, a large helping of avocado, mango, and cilantro, it’s refreshing yet tasty, and the perfect starter for a June/July 2017 variety of entrees that include wood fired pizzas, homemade pastas and lasagna, fish, chicken, veal and meat dishes. Traditionalists at our table ordered the Pollo Parmigiana, served with the requisite amount of cheese, and the Lasagna all’Emilian, made with rich béchamel and meat sauces and, you guessed it…cheese, but I opted for a tasting of the Agnolotti Alla Piemontese and the Branzino Cileno (the aforementioned sea bass.) Chef Dotto definitely knows how to make fresh pasta, the porcini mushroom and ricotta filled pillows aptly firm, yet tender, dressed in a black truffle cream sauce that mercifully avoided truffle overload. Still, it was that sea bass that will have me returning to Prosecco again and again. Expertly prepared, the buttery fish was topped with three baby clams in their shells, dressed with a delicate sauce, and served atop fregula Sarda, a pearly pasta likened to Israeli couscous. The dish was well balanced and the choice of pasta the perfect vehicle to soak up sauce with- out overpowering the seafood star of the show; yet, I will say it could have benefitted from an additional sprinkling of salt. They also often have a lunchtime version that substi- tutes vegetables for pasta and blistered heirloom grape tomatoes for the clams that’s a must try when offered. We finished our meal with a delightful tiramisu that was light in texture, yet rich in flavor, a welcoming characteristic that translates to the majority of their dishes. With the name Prosecco you’d expect a legitimate wine and bubbly list and they don’t disappoint, offering several options of both international and home grown varieties at all price points. And, while this won’t be the least expensive Italian meal you’ll have, or the quickest, there’s plenty of positives (including a swingin’ saxophone player on the night we dined) that make for a solid dining experience you won’t want to miss. For reservations, call them at 702-776-7772. ◆