FEATURE
FEATURE
David Rhode explores how Jewellery is an area in
which many millennials are still making unsustainable
choices, in many cases due to an absence of honest
dialogue around the diamond industry
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MAY 2019 | WWW.JEWELLERYFOCUS.CO.UK
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Unsustainable choices
Buying from a jeweller
who sources their
diamonds from a
Canadian mine, such
as the Ekati and
Diavik mines, means
you’re safe, as they
will be able to produce
certificates to show
you exactly where your
diamond came from
illennials have developed a well-earned reputation as a hyper-
conscious generation, thinking carefully about what they
consume and how they consume it. Lots of young people are
taking individual action to improve our planet; travelling more
responsibly, banishing single use plastics and straws, rejecting
meat, and recycling all that they can. But there’s something crucial being overlooked,
which is having a devastating impact on the health of our planet; and that’s the
jewellery industry.
Jewellery is an area in which many millennials are still making unsustainable
choices, in many cases due to an absence of honest dialogue around the diamond
industry in the mainstream media, which could help millennials make better informed
purchasing decisions. We’re inundated with news stories about the latest celebrity
engagements - with the 20 carat diamond ring Alex Rodriguez put on Jennifer Lopez’s
finger the most recent example - but hear nothing of where these diamonds came
from, and the impact their production is having on our planet.
The recent ruling that Zimbabwean diamonds are in fact ‘blood diamonds’
demonstrates that there’s still a great deal going on under the surface when it comes
to the diamond industry, and that the industry is still facing a number of issues which
are far from resolved.
Despite the fact that an awareness of ‘blood diamonds’ and their implications has
grown significantly in recent years (largely thanks to Edward Zwick’s 2006 film of
that name), many consumers are still unaware of the very real impact irresponsible
diamond mining is having on our planet, and the questions they must ask jewellers in
order to ensure they’re buying a piece that’s sustainable and conflict-free.
The Kimberley Process is a certification process which (in theory) ensures no
blood diamonds enter circulation. Established in 2003, the Kimberley Process aims
to prevent conflict diamonds from entering the supply chain, by only working with
officially certified mines; but according to a recent YouGov survey carried out with
ethical jewellers Ingle & Rhode, 80% of respondents hadn’t even heard of it.
This isn’t catastrophic - the Kimberley Process is very outdated and no longer
fit for purpose - but it does indicate a severe lack of education and understanding
surrounding the diamond industry and its environmental shortcomings.
The reality is that poorly regulated - or in some cases entirely unregulated -
diamond mines are destroying ecosystems and displacing communities; and despite
its good intentions, the Kimberley Process has not been successful in eradicating the
circulation of conflict diamonds, nor protecting workers. Diamonds from conflict
regions are often smuggled into ‘certified’ exports, meaning the process cannot
guarantee that a diamond is conflict-free, or that the people mining, cutting and
polishing diamonds are working in safe conditions for a fair wage.
Even more telling: when those intending on getting engaged were asked about the
most important aspects of the ring, quality, price and bespoke design came off as the
most important factors. Less than 10% of respondents mentioned ethical sourcing.
This comes despite the fact that 60% of people said they consider ethical sourcing
when making other purchases.
If, as stats suggest, 75% of millennials are willing to pay extra for environmentally
sustainable goods, and the number of vegans the world over has more than quadrupled
in the last five years, why aren’t we putting the jewellery industry under scrutiny for
its unsustainable practices? Millions of young people are being spurred into action
by the impact meat production is having on our planet, and the way in which animals
MAY 2019 | WWW.JEWELLERYFOCUS.CO.UK
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