Black Does Crack
While there is plenty of evidence that proves women of color age gracefully to the point of disbelief (hello, Angela Bassett!) and melanin is protective against accelerated photo-aging, our skin still loses elasticity, forms wrinkles, and becomes dull with time and poor maintenance just like everyone else’s. “Commit to a basic antiaging regimen that includes a sunscreen, a retinol, an antioxidant, and a great moisturizer to keep your complexion luminous and youthful,” says Dr. Henry. And the earlier you start it, the more effective it will be over time.
Your Scalp Needs Love, Too
The beauty of kinky hair is its versatility. Unfortunately, this has also led to the assumption that it possesses superhuman strength. According to Dr. Henry, this is bona fide fake news that also applies to the skin, or scalp, underneath. “To the contrary, kinky hair can be quite fragile and requires delicate care for growth. Invest in quality products that will help keep locks well hydrated and the scalp healthy,” she says. “Adopt a low-manipulation styling practice to avoid any unnecessary breakage. Treat hair gently and kindly!”
Don’t Skip Exfoliation
We’ve waxed poetic about the wonders of exfoliation for all skin tones and textures, but according to Los Angeles–based aesthetician Nai Roberts-Smith (also known as the LA Beautyologist), this is an especially important step for those with brown skin. “The skin cells of deeper-toned skin are more densely packed than lighter skin. This means that the generally recommended ‘once per week exfoliation’ advice isn’t enough for brown skin,” she says. “Exfoliation two or three times per week will even skin tone, brighten complexion, shrink the look of pores, and treat acne.”
Facial Scrubs Are Harmful
Although facial scrubs can feel like they’re sloughing away makeup, dirt, and grime, Roberts-Smith says they can also be overly abrasive. This leads to micro-tears in the skin and increased inflammation, both of which are breeding grounds for hyperpigmentation.
“Those with more melanin in their skin have an increased sensitivity to inflammation,” she adds. “Alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids and fruit enzymes are much safer exfoliation options because they exfoliate at the cellular level.”
May 2018 - 42 - ISSUE