Brown-Skin-Friendly Acids
Overall, Dr. Henry recommends Black women stick with gen-
tler exfoliant products to reduce the risk of excess irritation,
which often leads to dark spots. “I love glycolic acid because
it exfoliates without drying out the skin,” she says, adding
that it’s also an exceptional humectant, meaning it will
help your skin to retain moisture after a clarifying cleanse.
Glycolic acid is also an ideal cleansing option for oily skin,
which experts recommend applying to dry skin since water
neutralizes the ingredient, making it less effective. Dr. Wool-
ery-Lloyd says kojic acid, linoleic acid and citric acid are all
helpful to even skin tone and reduce the appearance of sun
damage. Linoleic also contains anti-inflammatory prop-
erties, which can help guard your skin against breakouts,
which ultimately leads to hyperpigmentation if you’re pick-
ing at them. “Hyaluronic acid also helps to hydrate the skin
to improve skin texture. These ingredients can be found in
a lot of the Specific Beauty products including the Advanced
Dark Spot Corrector Pads which help with evening skin tone
as well as the Lighten & Brighten Eye Cream,” she says.
Application Rules
For the most part, these acids can be found in topical prod-
ucts such as cleansers, toners, serums and masks. However,
if you’re looking to try a peel, Dr. Woolery-Lloyd says it’s
best to get one done in a dermatologist’s office; especially
when using salicylic and glycolic acids. “Typically the der-
matologist uses an applicator sponge, brush or gauze to ap-
ply the peel and then neutralizes or removes the peel after
two to three minutes,” she says. “The other acids that I dis-
cussed are typically found in skin-care products at concen-
trations that can be applied directly to the skin with your
fingertips. Also, oftentimes, products with acids are formu-
lated in pre-soaked pads, which make it easier to apply the
product.” Most topical chemical exfoliants don’t go above 10
percent in concentration, though there are rare exceptions,
like the Drunk Elephant Babyfacial at a whopping 25 per-
cent. In those cases, you should consult with a pro before
using, limit your use to a couple times a month or at least
spot test before applying to your entire face. Also, remember
that your exfoliants should be applied after your cleanser
and before your moisturizer. Should your cleanser contain
chemical acids, Dr. Henry isn’t against throwing a physical
exfoliant into the mix too. “I love using a spin brush to in-
crease the abilities of a glycolic acid wash. This makes the
wash and even more potent exfoliator,” she says. “One of my
favorites is the Proactiv Cleansing Brush.”
Citric Acid:
Farmacy Hon-
eymoon Glow
AHA Resurfac-
ing Night Serum
with Echinacea
GreenEnvy
Linoleic Acid:
Dr. Dennis
Gross Clinical
Concentrate Ra-
diance Booster
Glycolic Acid:
Ole Henrik-
sen Goodnight
Glow Retin-ALT
Sleeping Crème
ISSUE 49 - 2019 January