JAMO magazine January 2019/ 49 Issue | Page 29

These Are the Best Exfoliants for Brown Skin, According to Dermatologists We’re never done waxing poetic about the long-lasting benefits of chemical exfoliation. Not only does it accel- erate the skin’s natural cell turnover process; it’s also the best way to combat a handful of common issues that may otherwise take longer to heal, such as acne or discoloration. While the degree of an exfoliant’s effectiveness depends on a person’s skin type and lifestyle choices, there are certain ones that produce better results in brown skin. More specifically, they gently tackle the conditions that affect us most without altering our skin tone or causing irritation. The Primary Concerns Generally speaking, there are a lot of skin issues to unpack, whether it’s the result of genetics or our ev- eryday habits. For Black women, the most prominent concerns are usually uneven skin tone, hyperpigmen- tation and textural changes. The reason these affect brown skin more frequently than Caucasian skin is that melanin-rich skin has more reactive melanocytes. “Melanocytes are the cells that make pigment,” says Specific Beauty founder and board-certified dermatolo- gist Dr. Heather Woolery-Lloyd. “Any irritation, such as a pimple, turns on those melanocytes and produces a dark spot.” And while fairer skin also experiences dark spots, the problem appears more prominently in dark- er shades. Board-certified dermatologist Dr. Michelle Henry agrees, noting that hyperpigmentation is one of the primary complaints she receives from Black wom- en in her office. More often than not, she’ll recommend dark spot correctors, such as SkinMedica Lytera 2.0 or antioxidant-rich products like the SkinMedica Lumivive Kit to protect against blue light and free radical damage. However, regular chemical exfoliation promotes lon- ger-term results and over time can altogether reverse the effects of discoloration. Kojic Acid: Glo Skin Beauty Brightening Polish Salicylic Acid: Sunday Ri- ley U.F.O. Ul- tra-Clarifying Face Oil ISSUE 49 - 2019 January