Island Life Magazine Ltd October/November 2008 | Page 109

FOOD & DRINK

to see other kinds of food, and
traditions.”
His regional skills were
distilled at the Rousillion.
“Once I had the basic
techniques, I play around with
what my grandmother cooked
for me, I use those flavours,
that feeling. So, with the right
technique and knowledge you
can develop a successful dish.”
The search has left him with
the confidence to produce
food untrammelled by
complication. The menus
in both the “Gastronomic”
restaurant and the less formal
brasserie – are nothing but a
celebration of pure flavour.
“This summer we had the red
mullet or sea bream, with just
cos lettuce, green and yellow
courgette, comfit tomatoes,
olive oil, salt pepper,[here he
effects the sczhh sxzhh sound
of the pepper grinder] , with
Isle of Wight garlic. It’s light,
it’s fresh, you eat it on the
terrace.” And although we
both look at the sheets of rain
falling outside, I can almost
see the colours and smell
the flavours. “We don’t do
creamy,” he adds. “If you have
courgette soup, it’s courgettes,
a bit of leek, herbs – its
courgette soup, that’s what it

life

is!”
His menu is governed by
season – he cannot understand
the presence of asparagus
or raspberries when their
time is up – and by location.
“Yesterday a fisherman came,
bringing mackerel and sea
bass. Oh my God, I am so
lucky, such beautiful fish!” A
customer recently told him
there should be less fish on
the menu. “I said that was
impossible. Here we are, there
is the sea,” waving a hand
towards the beautiful bay just
beyond the hotel’s terrace and
golf course. Which says it all,
really.
Although the hotel is one of
the most acclaimed on the
Island the kitchen is flexible.
Guests can choose their
fish or meat, their preferred
method of cooking and take an
accompaniment from elsewhere
on the menu. “I know not
everybody likes everything,”
says Carlos. “Sometimes I
look through the window to
see their faces when the waiter
brings them their plate.” He
smiles his boyish smile. “I like
to see them happy.”
Priory Bay Hotel, Priory
Drive, Seaview, 01983 613146

www.wightfrog.com/islandlife

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