Island Life Magazine Ltd February/March 2009 | Page 102

life FOOD & DRINK The Garlic Farm Restaurant as if it’s always been there The restaurant of the Garlic Farm has been open just two weeks when I call in, but it is as if it has always been there. It has a logic, almost an inevitability about it, with the design reflecting the adjoining 18th century barn which houses the lovely shop. An extraordinary number of people seem to have turned out on a muddy January day, they come in, cast an approving glance at the open wood-burning fire and at the generous flagstones and substantial beams – then study the specials board. “What our chef Charlie has delivered so far is absolutely what people seem to want,” says Colin Boswell, owner of the Garlic Farm. “He specialises in light lunches, using real quality food, which is local where possible. Vegetarians are well catered for – there are several choices on the menu and at least 102 one veggie special each day. But Charlie also does fantastic things with pheasant and partridge to appeal to the modern palate.” The wine list is carefully selected to complement a light but flavoursome lunch. “Come the asparagus season you’ll be able to have a dish of asparagus with sauce and fresh brown bread, local butter, laid out with a glass of superb white wine – for a very good price. And that will be to die for.” From the restaurant, nestled as it is in its valley, you can see the farm, the heritage of which Colin is acutely proud. He has produced illustrated cards indicating suggested farm walks, where his majestic Highland cattle can be visited and various archaeological features can be seen. Colin’s deference to its history has doubtless informed the design of the new restaurant, but more than that, the main beams, forming a strong curve from floor to ceiling, were felled by local woodsman Andrew Toms with Pete Matthews of Matthews Timber, and constructed by Clive England. Today pigeon is on the menu, which was shot by Colin yesterday. Indeed, there is a wonderful homogeneity to the Garlic Farm Restaurant. Colin shoots pigeon, pigeon served on menu the following day. Trees, felled by local man to become the restaurant’s beams, were planted by Colin, with his father, 40 years ago. It is as cyclical as the seasons to which the chef Charlie adheres, altering his menu as the season demands. The Garlic Farm, Newchurch. Tel: 865378 The Island's new funky radio station www.wightFM.com