Island Life Magazine Ltd February/March 2009 | Page 102
life
FOOD & DRINK
The Garlic Farm
Restaurant as if it’s
always been there
The restaurant of the Garlic Farm has been
open just two weeks when I call in, but it
is as if it has always been there. It has a
logic, almost an inevitability about it, with
the design reflecting the adjoining 18th
century barn which houses the lovely shop.
An extraordinary number of people seem
to have turned out on a muddy January
day, they come in, cast an approving glance
at the open wood-burning fire and at the
generous flagstones and substantial beams –
then study the specials board.
“What our chef Charlie has delivered so far
is absolutely what people seem to want,”
says Colin Boswell, owner of the Garlic Farm.
“He specialises in light lunches, using real
quality food, which is local where possible.
Vegetarians are well catered for – there are
several choices on the menu and at least
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one veggie special each day. But Charlie
also does fantastic things with pheasant
and partridge to appeal to the modern
palate.” The wine list is carefully selected to
complement a light but flavoursome lunch.
“Come the asparagus season you’ll be able
to have a dish of asparagus with sauce and
fresh brown bread, local butter, laid out with
a glass of superb white wine – for a very
good price. And that will be to die for.”
From the restaurant, nestled as it is in its
valley, you can see the farm, the heritage
of which Colin is acutely proud. He has
produced illustrated cards indicating
suggested farm walks, where his majestic
Highland cattle can be visited and various
archaeological features can be seen.
Colin’s deference to its history has
doubtless informed the design of the new
restaurant, but more than that, the main
beams, forming a strong curve from floor
to ceiling, were felled by local woodsman
Andrew Toms with Pete Matthews of
Matthews Timber, and constructed by Clive
England.
Today pigeon is on the menu, which was
shot by Colin yesterday. Indeed, there is
a wonderful homogeneity to the Garlic
Farm Restaurant. Colin shoots pigeon,
pigeon served on menu the following day.
Trees, felled by local man to become the
restaurant’s beams, were planted by Colin,
with his father, 40 years ago. It is as cyclical
as the seasons to which the chef Charlie
adheres, altering his menu as the season
demands.
The Garlic Farm, Newchurch. Tel: 865378
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