Island Life Magazine Ltd April/May 2010 | Page 130

food

Island Life - April/May 2010

The young chef at
the Hambrough has
made waves on the
Island for his food.
But in his most
revealing interview
to date, Robert
Thompson says
if you think he’s
about ‘fine dining’
it’s time to think
again. He talks to
Martin Potter

Robert Foraging in the woods for wild garlic and wild mushrooms

The talented Mr Thompson
HIS face is everywhere; on the covers

losing the Hambrough’s fusty image

arranged food. This is surely a change

of food magazines, on the promotional

he has constructed for it a sense of

from the previous regime where you’d

videos on the ferries, in the Sunday

exclusivity that, if you think about the

need a free magnifying glass with every

supplements of the national press. And

real meaning of the word, isn’t exactly

dish. Robert is determined to shake

rightly so, for Robert Thompson has

what a restaurant wants. Those who feel

himself free of the ‘fine dining’ tag. “It’s

consistently bucked the expectations of

‘excluded’ only have to roll the word

special occasion dining, yes – you’re not

the food world to achieve the sort of

around your mouth – the Hambrough

going to have a three course meal with

culinary heights usually reserved for chefs

– to imagine the snooty look from the

appetiser and coffee every night – but

with acres of experience behind them. In

maitre d, the hushed atmosphere of the

that should mean enjoying your evening,

a word, older chefs.

dining room and those few green beans

relaxing, having a right good laugh.”

He is just 27 and since arriving at the

arranged artfully on a small white plate.

He paints a picture of what he doesn’t

Hambrough Hotel in Ventnor he has

All the attributes of the fine dining

want his restaurant to be: “You phone

dragged it out of its time warp and

experience in fact.