seen on the scene
Ao Dai
Vietnamese Traditional Long Gown
There are many things traditional to Vietnam yet deeply impress people from
all over the world. Ao dai is one of them.
The exact origin of Ao dai is still controversial. Ao dai is thought to be influ-
enced by the imperial Chinese garb of the Qing Dynasty, known as Cheon-
gsam. It is a fitted, full-length dress worn over black or white loose-fitting
trousers. Unlike Cheongsam, however, Ao dai is split all the way from the
waist down, contouring the pants. In 1744, the Nguyen Dynasty required that
both men and women should wear both pants and gown, though not until
1930 that Ao dai takes a similar shape to what it is right now.
Ao dai has experienced many modifications since its original version. Ao tu
than, which had been worn by Vietnamese women centuries before the Ao
dai evolved into the five-paneled dress which is known as the closest form to
the Ao dai. The older version of Ao dai then has five flaps: two in the back,
two in the front and one under the front lap. Ao dai, however, is more tight
fitted and has higher collar without a bodice underneath.
The public was inclined to think that in 1930, the Vietnamese fashion de-
signer Cat Tuong (a.k.a Le Mur) – a graduate from French Fine Arts College
of Indochina, modified Ao dai, which had the top lengthened to reach the
floor, less material to be made and slimmer flaps. Consequently, Ao dai was
then called Le Mur tunic.
8 iF Magazine | February 2018