FOOD + DRINK
THE GLASS HOUSE destination dining with a local feel
THE TERM ‘ DESTINATION RESTAURANT ’ HAS BECOME A BIT OF A BUZZWORD . I wouldn ’ t consider any restaurant that I can reach within minutes a ‘ destination ’ eatery no matter how many hours I can spend there moving from bar to dinner and back to drinks . For some , a destination restaurant is somewhere that offers an all-evening experience , for me , it ’ s about how far you ’ re willing to travel for a great meal . Leaving the familiar and travelling a few miles for fantastic food is not a chore , it ’ s exciting and absolutely worth doing . Especially if your destination is The Glass House Restaurant at Wickwoods Country Club , Hotel & Spa . BY POLLY HUMPHRIS
I ’ d heard enthusiastic rumblings about The Glass House before I visited . Like a phoenix resurrected from the ashes , Wickwoods had been all but derelict back in 2010 , until it was bought back and restored to its former glory by previous owner , Lee Goossens . Careful consideration has been made to ensure that The Glass House has an identity in its own right , however , and although it shares a postcode with its adjoining health and fitness facilities , the fact that it has a personality all of its own is evident from the minute you step through the doors .
The look and feel of the restaurant has a surprising edge – it ’ s partly very stylish as evinced by the contemporary lighting ( think chandeliers and young potted orange trees draped with fairy lights ); young , eager staff ; and , of course , the fact that it ’ s set in an orangery , so has a gorgeous sloping glass roof through which you can stargaze . On the other hand , the restaurant ’ s bucolic surrounds lend it a country feel . By the blissful lack of traffic noise alone you can tell you ’ re not in a built up area , which makes The Glass House feel like a well-kept secret . A sanctuary in which you ’ re encouraged to relax and really relish the experience .
Since The Glass House opened in early 2014 , the modern European menu has been
constantly refreshed and bettered to reflect head chef , Vincent Fayat ’ s commitment to using local , seasonal produce . I started with sweet scallops sat on a bed of silky celeriac puree and balanced by a sparing amount of deep red wine sauce ; a new combination for me and one that really works . The honey roast pigeon with smoked bacon and puy lentils tasted like a comforting earthy stew , but managed to look refined , and , if game is your thing , catch the rich roasted pheasant with chestnuts while you can .
The dish of the day for me though was the steak . Thick cut , rare as ordered , and seared properly with a strong layer of seasoning and a hint of crispy fat on the outside , the inside cut like butter ; it was so good I nearly forgot to eat my potato dauphinoise .
Unstuffy and with an upbeat and lively atmosphere , The Glass House may serve finedining standard food , but it isn ’ t a fine dining restaurant ; you ’ re as welcome to have a pint with your dinner as you are ( like me , always ) a glass of Nyetimber Rosé and because you ’ ve travelled a few extra miles to get there , it feels more special than a normal night out . It ’ s time to let this well-kept secret out of the bag – a destination restaurant is about how far you ’ re willing to travel for the food , and I ’ d have travelled a lot further for mine .
The Glass House Wickwoods Shaves Wood Ln Albourne Hassocks BN6 9DY
01273 857567 www . wickwoods . co . uk / glasshouse
WickwoodsClub WickwoodsGlassHouse
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