insideSUSSEX Magazine Issue 14 - April 2016 | Page 31

FOOD+DRINK

MODERN
VEGETARIAN
EATING AT
1847
A new vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free
restaurant, Brighton is the fourth location
in the 1847 family – and the only one down
south. Founded by Damien Davenport in
2011, and first launched in Manchester
to critical acclaim, it’s no wonder the
1847 empire is expanding: the menu is
innovative, the setting is chic, and, most
importantly, the food tastes divine. Polly
Humphris went along and had her mind
blown by caramelised cauliflower.

Caramelised cauliflower? Who knew a bowl of
dry-fried cauliflower in a gooey, sweet sauce
would change the way I viewed a vegetable that
I’ve never really understood. I certainly didn’t, but
there I found myself finishing all of it and wiping
up any excess with my delicately-buttered kale;
there’s no question I would’ve licked the bowl
had that been acceptable restaurant etiquette.
A simple side dish, it was a welcome surprise,
but then, oddly, inventive and satisfying
vegetarian food is still considered a bit of a
surprise by a lot of diners. Numerous times I’ve
heard people comment that they feel as though
they’re somehow ‘missing out’ if they’re not
served meat or fish with a meal, or that they’ve
‘been cheated’ financially. But, consider the
cost of everyday meat or fish and replace it with
the price of excellent, organic, locally-sourced
produce and you’re pretty much even Stevens,
especially when the portions are this generous.
Presented beautifully with a very classy
aesthetic - think dark slate slabs for plates;
deep, white bowls that highlight the rich
colours of the ingredients; and the considered
application of punchy herbs – the food served
at 1847 smacks of fine dining, but delivers a
portion that fills you up. At last. It’s not that I’m
greedy, but experience, notably when I once

left a 10-course tasting menu hungry, has
taught me that I love to eat, not just taste.
Nothing is average at 1847: the bright colours
of the vegetables show you how fresh they are
before the intense flavour hit they give confirms it;
the laid back, but highly-informed service is spot
on; and the wine menu – all vegan – is excellent.
It’s only when you drink half a bottle of vegan red
with not a minute of heavy headedness that you
realise how free of additives it is when compared
to a non-vegan counterpart.
On to the food though. It’s always exciting to
be presented with a meat-free menu that uses
similar titles for dishes you’re familiar with,
but only in a non-vegetarian setting. I opted
for ‘Surf and Turf’ for this very reason – three
ever-so-slightly caramelised aubergine steaks
dished up with kohl rabi coleslaw and Jersey
Royal potatoes. Hand on