insideKENT Magazine Issue 99 - June / July 2020 | Page 25

Hidden above The Downs between Canterbury and
Ashford, down narrow winding roads, through an
area of outstanding beauty and tucked away in the
tiny village of Crundale, you’ll find award-winning
eatery, The Compasses Inn.
Low doors, stone floors, roaring open fires and
beamed ceilings hanging with hops scream
‘traditional Kentish inn’ and portray the traditional
pub element that husband and wife team, Robert
and Donna Taylor were keen to retain. The cleverly
curated seasonal menus printed daily and pinned to
clipboards begin to show a glimpse of what stands
this inn head and shoulders above the rest when it
comes to its recognised culinary endeavours, most
recently marked by a Michelin Bib Gourmand award
and an inclusion in the top 50 gastropubs rankings.
A seemingly humble coaching inn, behind the rustic
doors in fact lies a couple passionate about produce
and service and with a clear mission to deliver great
food in a welcoming and unfussy way.
Taking our seats at the large wooden table with pew
bench and heavy wooden seats by the fire, my guests
and I began the most difficult part of our
evening...choosing just what to order from the menu
of contemporary yet homely British dishes.
The heaving board of freshly made bread with
homemade butter was a no-brainer – the marmite
cream cheese was a masterpiece which we promptly
fought over until we were distracted by a wonderful
array of starters. Rich and sticky venison encased in
a glazed domed brioche bun with rich and spicy
mustard jus; rich stout-glazed ox cheek with crispy
fried oysters; a beautifully delicate butter-poached
halibut with watercress puree and confit egg yolk;
and an envy-inducing, perfectly seared scallop dish
with roasted fennel and preserved orange – each
and every one was devoured in minutes.
Our mains presented a delicate pan-fried hake with
cuttlefish, white beans and the rich deep flavours of
the shellfish bisque; Kent favourite of seasonal lamb,
this time served as a seared loin with confit shoulder
with potato terrine, cavolo nero and wild garlic; and
the understated yet sublime roast chicken – the most
moist and delicious cuts of roast chicken with crispy
skin served with delicious truffle dumplings, Kentish
asparagus and chicken jus – just wow – and that was
before we tried the best triple-cooked chips ever.
For total research purposes (also because we’re greedy
and mainly because we just like pud) we finished
with dessert. A new dish of the day, the bright pink
and totally moreish white chocolate and raspberry
cheesecake slice was sensational; the chocolate
macaron which proffered the largest macaron ever
seen sandwiched between rich chocolate ganache
with a side of malt and barley ice cream was equally
delicious; the affogato, a ‘sensibly small’ choice of
rich espresso with vanilla ice cream and petit fours
was indulgent and deep with flavour; and the rich,
sticky toffee pudding with caramelised banana and
vanilla ice cream was a firm table favourite.
Head chef, Rob recognises his luck that The
Compasses is in a perfect setting, surrounded by
rolling countryside and positioned by game estates,
rivers and farmland heralding a raft or local producers
from which he can choose the best local produce to
combine with homegrown herbs, vegetables and
fruits. I recognise our luck in that he has chosen The
Compasses to showcase his passionate and creative
culinary flair...and that we get to relish it.
The Compasses Inn
Sole Street
Crundale
Canterbury
CT4 7ES
01227 700 300
www.thecompassescrundale.co.uk
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