GETAWAYS
We wanted to explore however , so threw down our luggage and headed straight out to the health club , where , for the fitness conscious among us , there is a wellequipped gym and , for those preferring a bit of pampering , there ’ s the tranquil Waterbeach Spa . We opted for a dip in the light , bright indoor pool , surrounded by comfy rattan loungers and home to a jacuzzi tub , sauna and steam rooms – the perfect respite to a busy day in the office and the perfect appetite builder for dinner .
‘ Farmer , Butcher , Chef ’ is Goodwood ’ s latest restaurant offering , and should be commended for its self-explanatory name alone . The concept is simple : ‘ farmer ’, Tim , based yards away at Home Farm ( one of Europe ’ s only self-sustaining organic farms ) rears his livestock , including the Goodwood cows , pigs and sheep , which are then passed to master ‘ butcher ’, John , his dedicated approach ensuring that every cut from each animal is utlised , providing ‘ chef ’, Darron , with a unique basis on which to form his enticing menus .
Having held two Michelin stars , Darron Bunn ’ s passion and professionalism is clearly thrown wholeheartedly into Farmer , Butcher , Chef ’ s menu and the ‘ farm-to-fork ’ dining experience that aims to bring some nostalgia back into our lives and can justly claim that diners have travelled further for their dinner than the produce !
Entering past a full-size cow statue , the restaurant itself is an offbeat blend of vaulted barn ceiling , wood panels , wooden tables with mismatched chairs , contemporary Edison bulb light fixtures and eye-catching decorative pieces that all fit in with the overall theme including pictures , hoses , old keys and farming equipment .
The result is a contemporary yet cosy space that offers formal dining in a more relaxed setting and we were soon drawn in by the menu , marked at the centre by a list of tempting ‘ Butcher ’ s Boards ’. Designed to share , the heaving platters named simply ‘ Lamb ’, ‘ Beef ’ and ‘ Pork ’ showcase a range of traditional and new cuts , and cooking techniques and were evidently a firm favourite around the dining room .
Aiming to try as much of the produce as possible though , my guest and I decided to opt for individual starters and main courses , which we waited for excitedly as we devoured our warm slices of freshly baked sourdough bread .
First up my guest ’ s crusted beef shin – the slow-cooked , tender beef was rich and heavenly , topped with British crayfish and chanterelles . I , meanwhile , devoured the oregano-rubbed pig jowl , a new cut for me , which was divine – more flavoursome than a cheek or belly , the rich mix of light and darker meats was offset with fennel , pickled potato and a sweet apple sauce .
Eager for more , my guest ’ s main arrived in the form of haunch of lamb . The tender pink meat , prepared with a delicious outer glaze , came perched on honey-glazed swede and sprout leaves with devilled livers ; it tasted even better than it looked . My red Sussex rump of Beef was cooked to perfection , accompanied with an oxtail bon bon , stuffed shallots and salsify ; every mouthful truly was a taste sensation – and the triple cooked chips were amazing too .
Feeling quite full , but with no hesitation , we also plumped for pudding . My choice of the Bramley apple crumble souffle bought us 15 minutes of downtime between courses , which I was glad of as it enabled me to polish off every mouthful . Beautifully risen and smooth as silk , the sweet apple pudding with crunchy crumble was offset by the acidic and alcoholic depth of the accompanying cider brandy ice-cream – if I could ’ ve got away with it , I would ’ ve licked the dish ! I had barely noticed my guest ’ s bread and butter pudding until I heard murmurs of appreciation as he cracked through the caramelised sugar topping to find a sweet pudding below laden with custard .
It ’ s not often that I am equally impressed and sated by all three courses from a menu , but Farmer , Butcher , Chef exceeded all expectations , producing some of the most flavoursome and exciting dishes that I have had the pleasure to devour . Next morning , departing the Goodwood Hotel through rolling Sussex countryside bathed in early spring sunshine , my mind was already searching for a free date to return .
The Goodwood Hotel , Goodwood Estate Chichester West Sussex PO18 0QB
01243775537 reservations @ goodwood . com www . goodwood . com / estate / the-goodwood-hotel /
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