insideKENT Magazine Issue 57 - December 2016 | Page 99

FOOD+DRINK MODERN DINING AT The County Restaurant at the Abode Hotel, Canterbury BY SAMANTHA READY There is always something romantic and inspiring about treading the cobbles and entering the ancient city walls in Canterbury, and located in prime position in the historic city is the Abode Hotel, home to my dining destination for the evening. Entering through the hotel’s pretty arched entrance your eye is immediately drawn to the floor-toceiling monogrammed windows and doors to the right of reception, luring you to the sleek Champagne bar beyond, which as it happened was the perfect rendezvous point for my evening companions. Aside from the expansive bar itself, there is a chic yet cosy drinking area framed with beamed ceilings, arched windows, wood-panelled walls and a grand fireplace. Sophisticated but not stuffy, my guests and I relaxed here to enjoy a pre-dinner tipple from the extensive Champagne and cocktail menu. The County Restaurant, named after the original hotel name dating back to 1892, continues the sophisticated yet welcoming feel. Ambience is aided not least through the attentive professional service from the plethora of waiting staff, but by the layout that mixes formal round tables with leather bench seating, allowing a dining space that caters equally well for intimacy or group gusto. Taking a seat at a central round table, my guests and I were at once engrossed in the seasonal à la carte menu, which prides itself on offering modern European dishes that utilise the best regional produce and, if that weren’t enough, a thorough and extensive wine list featuring a wealth of European vineyards and New World estates. Decisions made, we were soon provided with our amuse bouche for the evening: a rich hearty parsnip broth complete with chives and truffle as well as a tempting selection of fresh breads. Mini cups of deliciousness finished and tastebuds tantalised, our starters were swiftly delivered; not only beautifully presented but with that added attention to detail of an individual explanation of each dish. And so appeared a delicate plate of fresh crab with wafer thin pickled mooli, a fresh lime confit and heady peanut, chilli caramel strands; a hearty slab of duck liver terrine with brioche and a fruity, sweet plum gel; and, for me the standout first-course dish: the scallops. The four perfectly cooked scallops served with accompaniment de rigueur cauliflower, caramelised on a bed of squid ink soil, were enhanced by a unique raisin vinaigrette that proved rather moorish. Starters devoured, our main courses arrived, again with that introductory flourish, which was a little shorter this time as the majority of us were tempted (and justifiably so!) by the same dish: the Romney Marsh lamb. The tender herb-coated lamb did not disappoint; it was succulent and delicious with a delicate lamb jus, and the jabron potatoes offered a surprise element with a subtle curry kick. Keen to not follow the flock, one guest decided instead to opt for the monkfish and was rewarded with a beautifully cooked and presented piece of fish, with a kick of samphire and further enhanced by an onion consommé presented with flourish at the table. 99 Dining conversation at this point almost came to a stop as we each tucked in with relish, pausing only to discuss just how good the dishes were, until as plates were cleared, conversation resumed mainly around the topic of pudding! We enjoyed a chocolate and banana ganache served with a decadent peanut cremeux, hunks of peanut sponge and a tasty white chocolate and banana sorbet; a pretty strawberry mousse, with a huge thyme shortbread, delicious strawberry sorbet and offset with a punchy lemon curd; and a baked lemon curd with plump juicy blackberries, meringue batons, and an inspired lemon meringue sorbet – all delivered, attentively explained and promptly devoured. With a closing coffee and a promise to share the too-inviting-to-turn-down chocolate truffle petit fours, my guests and I reluctantly ambled away into the autumn night air, with a pact to return as soon as we could. ABode Canterbury 30-33 High St Canterbury CT1 2RX 01227 766 266 [email protected] www.abodecanterbury.co.uk /ABodeHotels @ABodecanterbury