insideKENT Magazine Issue 23 - February 2014 | Page 81

FOOD+DRINK

HIDDEN IN THE DOWNS

The Compasses Inn

BY

ADAM

READY

On a cold winter’s evening we ventured out for a night of homemade hearty Kentish food. We left the
A28 at Godmersham and had a short cross-country drive until we arrived at The Compasses Inn in
the village of Crundale located on the North Downs. As we exited the car, there was a dead silence as
we were now out in the sticks (apart from the hoot of a distant owl). The open burning fire greeted
us into this traditional country pub restaurant, serving à la carte cuisine, Sunday roasts or even a light
snack with a couple of pints of fine Kentish Real Ale.
Dried hops decorated the cosy dining area with
flowers and barley on each table, subtly lit by a
flickering candle. There is a larger restaurant area
at the rear of the pub which can also be used
for private dining or large groups, as it was on
the evening of our visit. This also opens out onto
the large family-friendly garden. Robert and Donna
Taylor took over the pub back in 2012 and have
plans to expand with some holiday property to
the back of the large garden.
Freshly baked farmhouse bread from Wye Bakery
arrived on a large slate with salted home churned
butter. It was so good, I was tempted to ask our
waitress to wrap up a loaf to take home for
Sunday’s breakfast the next morning.
From the kitchen Rob sent out a sample from
the menu of the smoked sea trout, which was
tasty and served with a crème fraîche. It had
been a number of years since I had had a chance
to sample Rob’s cuisine when he was chef over
at the popular Samphire in Whitstable.
Shortly after, my starter of two very large golden
crab croquettes came to the table, packed with
fresh crab meat and potato, served with a smoked
paprika mayo. It was absolutely divine.
My guest fancied something different, so ordered
the wild duck faggot with confit duck hash, which

looked like it could be served as a main meal.
The minced duck faggot was hearty, and you
could taste the real quality of the duck. The confit
was just as amazing; a red wine reduction made
the textures and flavours of the dish come
together.
Sticking with a fish course for my main, I ordered
the smoked haddock, champ potatoes, poached
duck egg and wholegrain mustard. The haddock
was perfectly cooked and the rich duck egg had
a bright orange yoke which oozed over the fish
and bed of greens.

smooth chocolate mousse brownie; and an
amazingly unique pear and gingerbread crème
brûlée which had the surprise of delicate pieces
of poached pear and chunks of homemade
gingerbread cake under the crisp sugar top.
Over-indulged, we had no option 'WBF