Makeup reports from the 2012 runways were of light and dark, rich excess or a sleek wash of colour. This season it’s all about contouring and sculpting with a little sprinkle of fairy dust. For autumn 2013, we will see another return of the classic cat eyeliner made famous by beauties such as Brigitte Bardot and Marilyn Monroe in the 1950s. The cat eyeliner has been reinvented with the black being replaced by colours such as ice blue and violet as favoured by the likes of Dior and Jason Wu. Designers such as Anna Sui and Kenzo preferred to stick with the classic 60’ s wing in black. Tip: For perfect winged eyeliner, use an angled brush instead of a ?ne liner. Some of the gel eyeliners are great for perfecting the sweep on the outer edge of the eye and are easier to control than liquid liners. Opt for eye colours such as copper, gold and rust, blended to just over the socket of the eyelid, around the outer edge of the eye and through the lower lash line. This type of application cr eates a strength and vibrancy to the eye shadow. This is a makeup technique which is easy to replicate and can be easily transferred to other colours once mastered. Tip: Rusts, coppers and golds are great for making blue/green eyes sparkle. Black smokey eyes are so last season! This year it’s been replaced with a sheer grey. The catwalks saw models with slicked back hair and grey colour up to the brow bone. Think mannequin, think Kraftwerk. Tip: If this look is too masculine and you want to soften it, then ensure that the wash
of sheer colour is applied to the lid only and is blended only up to the socket line. Most hair colours can take grey but if you don’t want to limit yourself, try a blue, purple or earthy tone. And the fairy dust? A sprinkling of sparkle was seen across the runways from pearly glitter at Donna Karan to sequins at Chanel and anything goes when it comes to application. Full eyelid coverage, glitter eyeliner and mid-lid glitter highlights were among some of the creations. Get practicing in preparation for the festive period which, incidentally, is only a few months away. Tip: Loose glitter is messy, hard to control and travels. To prevent this, apply foundation from forehead down to the top lids only. Apply the top lid eyeshadow and whatever glitter product you choose. Clean up any product which has dropped onto the cheek area, then ?nish applying the foundation to the rest of the face. Despite the makeup artists’ nod to the 50s and 60s with eyeliner, eyebrows have moved away from the perma-surprised look seen in these decades and here we have seen a move towards the 80s. Eyebrows have become more masculine again, as seen on model of the moment Cara Delevingne, but don’t banish the tweezers just yet. The monobrow is yet to make a comeback; the look is for strong, defined brows only! Tip: Rather than head to your local tattooist, opt for a less permanent solution. Invest in a good eyebrow de?nition kit which includes different tones of colour and brow sealants or an eyebrow pencil. Pencils will give a much stronger colour than a shadow but will smudge quicker too.
It’s not just eyebrows that are drawing influence from the 80s; so too is blusher, worn underneath the cheekbone to sculpt and then blended away into the temples. Many of the make up brands have multiple shade blush palettes which when applied gives depth and dimension to the face. Tip: If you can’t ?nd a palette to suit, then use two existing colours. Use a dark colour to sculpt and a lighter one over the top to highlight, which can give a similar effect. It’s good news for those lovers of highly pigmented lipsticks. Lip colours for this season are bright red (Nina Ricci) or reminiscent of a glass of autumnal merlot (Vera Wang). Bright red can be worn either ultra matte or with lashings of gloss reminiscent of Jerry Hall on those old Roxy Music album covers Even those with thinner lips can wear the plum hue of the season. Apply the deep plum lip colour all over the lip then apply a lip colour one shade lighter to the centre of the lip only. This will enhance the shape of the lips as the plum colour alone can give the illusion of thinner lips as it will absorb the light. TIP: Always remember to line the lips when using any highly pigmented lipsticks. This type of colour has a tendency to ‘bleed’ into lines on the mouth. The lip liner creates a barrier to stop the lipstick moving. For an ultra matte look with lots of colour, apply the lip colour, blot off on a tissue, reapply and blot off again. So, why not surprise yourself with a new look this autumn?
www.insidekentmagazine.co.uk
77