FOOD + DRINK
ROCKING THE LAID BACK , INDUSTRIAL-LUXE VIBE AND SHOWCASING A PASSION AND COMMITMENT TO FOOD PROVENANCE :
MACKNADE ELWICK PLACE
BOASTING OVER 170 YEARS AT THE HEART OF THE UK FOOD SCENE , AND KEEN TO EXPAND THE SUCCESS OF ITS FLAGSHIP FAVERSHAM-BASED FOOD HALL - WHICH HAS BEEN BRINGING FOOD FROM FARM TO TABLE TO THE KENTISH CROWDS FOR OVER 40 YEARS - MACKNADE VENTURED TO ASHFORD , TAKING PRIME POSITION IN THE ELWICK PLACE DEVELOPMENT JUST AS COVID STRUCK . BY SAMANTHA READY
Fast forward months of diversification , doorstep deliveries , a proud reopening of its marketplace , and sell-out crowds to its Eat Out to Help Out brunches , Macknade Elwick Place is ready for the next part of its journey - and dinner is now beckoning !
The shop-come-bistro is a welcome addition to Ashford , with its industrial-chic metal and wooden shelves boasting a plethora of local and artisan produce and an eclectic array of fine wines , ales and spirits - including of course , some top Kentish favourites - alongside its delicatessen and butchery counters . Past the market stall vibe , lay , a now socialdistanced , array of rustic bench and mismatched table seating options , ready to serve the waiting brunchers and lunchers who flock for their favourite ‘ on-sourdough ’ concoctions and freshly brewed caffeine fix , as well as a new Macknade cohort - the weekend evening dining crowd . Intrigued not only by the weekly changing special focus menus , but by the allure of corkage free Fridays , allowing you to indulge in a tipple or two right from the shelf for no extra charge .
Taking our seats the atmosphere was relaxed and comfortable , the staff led by the friendly , yet ultra efficient , Alison , are seamless . Drinks are swiftly delivered , recommendations are made without hesitation , and all tables have direct views of the pass aside the plancha , where head chef Romu is waiting with his team to utilise the fresh , quality produce that Macknade is rightly proud of .
Whilst it may feel like the dinner service has been a long time coming , Alison was quick to point out that the pause in ‘ normal ’ offered a unique opportunity for the fledgling team to find its feet , assess their menu proposition , and be extra prepared - and this advantage is evident throughout the whole dining experience .
My guests and I arrived on Lamb Night ( which had followed a rather successful steak weekend and well received burger special menu too ), the monochrome menu offering the choice of two simple starters ; goats cheese , grilled to perfection and deliciously oozing , served with celery and apple salad ; or parma ham , an ample portion of perfectly cured meat served with soft sliced bread , peppery rocket , capers and parmesan - as well as the special lamb dishes .
Offering variety and showcasing the scope of different cuts and cooking techniques , dishes included the mustard and herb crusted lamb rump , grilled on the plancha to perfection served with a moorish and indulgent dauphinoise and delicious array of glazed vegetables ; the delicate lamb cutlets with sauteed new potatoes and ratatouille ; and the divine 18-hour slow cooked pulled shoulder of lamb , piled high in its mustard seed sourdough roll with pickled veg and a heap of vegetable crisps .
Fear not , if lamb , or indeed any of the meat specials are not for you , the menu also offers a vegetarian and vegan option too .
We left our evening tipple choice to Alison and Emily , rewarded first with a glass of Gusbourne ’ s finest Brut Reserve , followed by a Greensand Ridge Wealden Rum with apple juice and lime , and a Copper Rivet Vela Vodka mixed with the spicy , rich Chinese kick of Square Root Ginger Beer - the bold , smooth drinks perfectly bringing out the flavours of the dishes .
Never one to turn down pud , we indulged with a choice of each of the three dessert options . A sharp and smooth lemon posset and rich , sticky , triple chocolate brownie for my guests , whilst I had the pleasure of Romu ’ s beautifully presented apple tart with creme anglaise - just in time for Kentish apple season !
With its strong commitment to food provenance , local produce and bringing the best to Kentish kitchens , the quality of Macknade ’ s ingredients was never in doubt as my guests and I took our seats . The quality of the final dishes , the wonderful atmosphere , and a service that was second to none , means our decision to return isn ’ t either !
Macknade Elwick Place No . 1 Elwick Place Ashford TN23 1AE macknade . com / elwick
macknade
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