FOOD + DRINK
BRIGHTON
The Set Bar
A New Standard for Seasonal Small Plates
SINCE THE SET – THE EAGERLY ANTICIPATED RESTAURANT FROM DAN KENNY AND SEMONE BONNER ( FORMER HEAD CHEFS OF BRIGHTON FAVOURITES , GINGERMAN AND GINGER PIG RESPECTIVELY ) BURST ONTO THE BRIGHTON FOOD SCENE IN 2015 , IT ’ S DONE LITTLE MORE THAN GATHER ACCLAIM . AND RIGHTLY SO . SERVING UP SEASONAL SET MENUS FROM AN INTIMATE 20-COVER DINING ROOM AT REGENCY SQUARE BOUTIQUE HOTEL , ARTIST RESIDENCE , IT ’ S A TRENDY , THOUGHT-PROVOKING RESTAURANT WHERE DINING COMBINES AN ELEMENT OF SURPRISE ( THE SET MENU CHANGES WEEKLY ) AND MODERN , DELICIOUS FOOD . THE SET BAR THEREFORE , IS ITS MORE CHILLED OUT LITTLE SISTER ; PROMISING TAPAS AND A LAID-BACK BASE FOR CATCHING UP WITH FRIENDS OVER A FEW DRINKS .
Firstly , I wouldn ’ t call what The Set Bar serves up tapas , I ’ d call it small plates ; for me , tapas denotes a selection of small , predominantly Spanish dishes , which doesn ’ t do justice to the series of inventive dishes – inspired by near and far – that we had the pleasure to eat here . Cold snacks and sharing platters are served from the The Set Bar ’ s central counter , including charcuterie from Kent-based Moons Green Farm served with sourdough and kimchi dip , British cheeses from Neal ’ s Yard Dairy , and fresh Maldon oysters , while hot dishes include suckling pig and cheese croquettes , focaccia with chorizo jam and sage , and fried dumplings with cucumber and miso .
Where possible ingredients from The Set kitchen form the basis of the menu to minimise waste , meaning that – as with The Set , its more formal counterpart – the menu will naturally evolve with the seasons . Both sets of croquettes : the aforementioned suckling pig and cheese , which went from crunchy coating into salty , rich pork and oozing sweet cheese in one mouthful , and the haddock croquettes with squid ink taramasalata , which combined creamy roe , hits of citrus and soft , sweet flakes of fish , were almost too tasty . Perfectly balanced mouthfuls of full-on flavour , that couldn ’ t have paired better with cold , crisp Sauvignon Blanc , we greedily ordered at least three portions .
Other standout dishes you should over order are the beetroot , feta , mint and pear salad , the freshness of which teams up beautifully with the focaccia and chorizo jam ( an elevated bacon sandwich ) and cleverly manages to cleanse your palate as you go , and the plaice ceviche with seaweed vinaigrette , a dish that transports you straight to Latin-America-on- Sea and is a great match with a Seasonal Martinez citrus cocktail from brand new adjoining cocktail bar , The Fix . The star of the show though ? The squid bun with roast garlic aioli – all at once a bite of buttery brioche , firm , grilled squid that tastes of the sea , and salty squid ink with a glorious oniony aftertaste , it ’ s just a heavenly combination with the look and feel of comfort food , but the flavours of fine dining .
Do be sure to arrive a little early and head first to The Fix for an aperitif . Very Brighton , it ’ s a seasonal cocktail bar , but it doesn ’ t feel gimmicky . In line with The Set Bar and The Set itself , that just means it takes its lead from the main kitchen in terms of ingredients and as a result produces some pretty quirky combinations . A textured blend of wood , exposed brick , resin , stone and huge mirrors , it ’ s the inspiring interior design of all three Set siblings , as well as a dedication to seasonality and a desire to excite and surprise that bonds them all , and yet they each have distinct personality quirks – my advice would be to book a room and make a weekend of it , so you can experience all three .
The Set / The Set Bar / The Fix Artist Residence Brighton BN1 2GG 01273 855 572 www . thesetrestaurant . com
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