GETAWAYS
Exquisite combinations at Brighton ’ s
PIKE & PINE
ONE THING THAT BRIGHTON DOES SO VERY WELL IS OOZE COOLNESS , ALTHOUGH ITS LAID-BACK ZEST FOR LIFE UNDERPINS A LESS THAN MODEST DEMAND FOR GREATNESS THAT IS NEVER MORE EVIDENT THAN IN ITS BOOMING RESTAURANT SCENE . AS A VISITOR RATHER THAN NATIVE , IT CAN BE ALMOST OVERWHELMING TRYING TO DECIDE WHERE TO ACTUALLY PIN YOUR DINNER HOPES AMONG THE ARRAY OF TANTALISING STREET FOOD , ACCLAIMED FINE DINING AND TEMPTING POP-UPS ... REST ASSURED HOWEVER , YOU NEEDN ’ T LOOK FURTHER THAN PIKE & PINE . BY SAMANTHA READY
Entering through relatively unassuming doors bearing the Red Rooster frontage of its daytime coffee shop alter-ego , Pike and Pine is just one of those places that you immediately want to fit into . It appears as effortlessly cool and sophisticated in a way that belies the clear effort that Michelin-awarded head chef and proprietor , Matt Gillan and his team have put into his first restaurant .
From the double-height ceilings with carefully chosen industrial design and the array of greenery in the form of hanging boxes and oversized trees , to the long marble island that affords countertop-seated diners uninterrupted views of the pass , everything is just right ; comfortable and fresh , but not in a conceited way .
Understanding the changes and challenges facing the local market , Pike & Pine is not about destination dining , it ’ s a local restaurant . And , while Gillan could ’ ve gone high-end £ 100 per person menus ( and did initially with some success ), he ’ s instead made the bold and wise decision to make his food affordable as well as amazing .
The menu , full of subtle Asian influences that result in tastebud-tingling hits of sweet and spice , is split into a four-section à la carte , or a daily chef ’ s choice selection ( from which we dined ) to which you can add wine pairings , or something from the Brighton-inspired cocktail menu .
We began with a mini handbaked focaccia loaf with toasted chai seeds and sumac , warm from the oven and delicious with black salt butter . Then came the two ‘ bites ’ plates : herb arancini balls topped with lemon and caper mayo , and the beef bao whose bright red steamed bun shone like a beacon encasing spiced , slow-cooked beef shin and steamed cabbage .
Stage 2 – our ‘ small / sharer ’ plates delivered the mushroom fregola , tiny morsels of pasta with wild mushrooms , pickled mushrooms and lime segments topped with tapioca crumb ; and pork belly – perfectly seared and sticky pork cut with apple segments , sweet sauce and an inspired crackling powder , which we devoured .
For our ‘ larger plates ’ we were offered herbcrusted hake – a change to the menu due to the recent catch off of the coast ( which they adapted to cater for my shellfish allergy ). The delicate fish dish with beans and kiwi epitomised the restaurant : simple , clean and fresh , while the black bean chicken delivered shiitake mushrooms , crispy pine nuts and a glazed , tender chicken breast complemented with a side of charred broccoli .
Dessert was another foray into clever flavour combinations in the form of a sublime vanilla panna cotta with rhubarb and gingerbread , and a very moorish treacle tart with custard ice cream and lemon curd , which was a delight .
Dreamt up for sharing and social eating , the whole concept just works – Matt Gillan and Pike & Pine , I salute you !
Pike & Pine 1D St James ’ s Street Brighton BN2 1RE 01273 686668 info @ pikeandpine . co . uk www . pikeandpine . co . uk
PikeandPine _ at pikeandpine . co . uk pike _ pine
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