insideKENT Magazine Issue 76 - July 2018 | Page 156

OUTDOORLIVING
YOUR GARDEN THIS MONTH: JULY cont.
Roses: Gently snap off the faded flowers,
breaking the stalk just below the head (also
see ‘Where to cut’ below).
Shrubs: Among the most important shrubs
to deadhead are rhododendron (and azaleas),
camellias, lilacs and tree peonies. Use finger
and thumb to pick or snap off each deadhead
where it joins the stem or secateurs to cut just
below the flower head. Avoid damaging buds
or developing growths immediately below the
flower.
Climbers: Deadhead climbers where practical,
particularly Eccremocarpus as it rapidly
produces seed pods.
Bulbs: Remove flowers, along with the seed
capsule. However, leave the green flower stalk
in place as this photosynthesises (produces
food), helping to build up the bulb to flower
well next season.
TREAT APPLE SCAB
Apple scab is a disease caused by the fungus,
Venturia inaequalis, that spreads by airborne
spores and survives the winter on fallen leaves.
Expect scab marks to appear on leaves from
mid-spring until leaf fall in autumn.
This is a disease specific to apples and other
trees and shrubs including Cotoneaster,
Pyracantha and Sorbus. A closely related
fungus, Venturia pyrina, causes a similar
disease called pear scab on fruiting and
ornamental pears only.
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You may see the following symptoms:
On leaves: Patches of olive-green spots or
blotches appear, which are initially velvety as
they release airborne spores, and then
darkening. Affected leaves often fall
prematurely.
On young shoots: Infections cause blistering
and cracking that can then provide entry for
the apple canker pathogen.
On fruit: Black scabby blotches develop and,
as the fruit matures, these restrict expansion
of the skin, leading to distortion and cracking.
Light attacks only damage the skin and eating
quality is hardly affected (though the disease
is commercially very serious, because growers
cannot sell scabby fruit). However, if the fruits
crack as a result of scab they become prone
to fruit rots and will not store well.
a butt as tap water is rich in nutrients that
causes algae to prosper.
If you do have to use tap water and you keep
fish, add the tap water gradually in small
amounts to prevent the cold liquid shocking
the fish in the pond. On hot, humid nights,
spray water over the surface of the pool from
a hose to break the surface and improve
oxygen levels in the water. Alternatively, install
or turn on a water feature to keep the surface
bubbling gently.
Floating weeds can quickly cover the surface
of a pond if left unchecked, so twirl these out
with a stick or use a net to scoop them out.
Leave weeds and algae on the side of the
pond overnight, so that larger creatures can
return to the water. Rinsing the material in
a bucket of pond water can help release
smaller creatures which can then be returned
to the pond.
CLEAR ALGAE, BLANKET WEEDS AND DEBRIS
FROM PONDS
Start by preparing a holding tank in a shady
spot for fish and deep water plants; use some
pond water in the tank, unless it is particularly
cloudy. Marginal (water’s edge) plants will
survive out of the pond as long as they are
kept moist and shaded. The easiest way to
drain the pond is to use a pump, which can
be rented for the day from a machinery hire
shop.
As the water level falls, remove fish as they
become visible.
Water evaporates during windy or hot weather,
leading to the water level dropping. The
reduced surface area can be damaging for fish
as there’s less oxygen available, so top up the
pond if necessary. Ideally use rainwater from
The RHS is a UK charity established to
share the best in gardening. Their work is
driven by a simple love of plants and the
belief that gardeners make the world a
better place.
For more information visit www.rhs.org.uk