temperature by 6 o C, and that average summer
daytime temperature is 25 o C and winter is 16 o C. The
heated end of your enclosure will therefore be 31 o C in
summer but only 22 o C in winter.
For obvious reasons, brumation should be avoided if
possible for any animals that are sick or in poor
condition. Likewise, any animal undergoing
brumation which suffers a marked deterioration in
condition should be ‘reheated’ as soon as possible.
species in your care. Many blue-tongue keepers
simply move their animals indoors for the winter, in
unheated enclosures, so they don’t suffer the
extremes of the external environment. Turtles (and
other species that remain outdoors) may require an
insulated container with appropriate substrate that
retains a level of humidity, and it may also be
advantageous to equip it with a thermometer. If in
doubt, seek the assistance of an experienced keeper
or reptile vet.
The ability to digest food is an important considera-
tion. If ambient temperatures are too low, your
reptiles may not be able to digest food items in their
gut, which can cause problems. Snake keepers
routinely ensure that their animals’ stomachs are
empty (i.e. they have had a poo) prior to initiating
brumation, and many other reptiles will go without
food completely if brumating under natural
conditions. However, if you inducing a mild form of
brumation (as detailed above), with some supplemen-
tary heating, then your animals may benefit from
continued, but reduced feeding. Regardless of food
intake, clean drinking water is a necessity for all
brumating reptiles, although the water bowl may not
be a permanent fixture in enclosures for animals
prone to respiratory infections (e.g. Shinglebacks).
Remember, brumation is not without risk, and it is
also important to research the requirements of the
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