I n September and October 1835 , Charles Darwin spent five weeks sailing through the Galapagos archipelago on that now famous journey which was to inspire his theory of evolution . On the Origin of Species was published in 1859 and is considered to be the cornerstone of evolutionary biology . Retracing Darwin ’ s footsteps and visiting the very beach where he first stepped ashore in the Galapagos was a privilege to say the least .
The Galapagos consists of 13 major islands and a number of smaller ones . Active volcanoes continue to shape the landscapes , as they have done for the past 20 million years . Each island has its own distinct species of flora and fauna , and although many are closely related to those of other islands , their morphology and physiology differ slightly , reflecting the natural selective pressures and environments they have been exposed to . Most notable is the diverse range of finches found across the islands , with their remarkable variations in beak form and function . Collectively known as ‘ Darwin ’ s fiches ’, these comprise a group of about 15 species from a number of genera . Having studied these finches in university , I was completely awestruck when I saw my first specimen . I stood entranced , admiring the small brown bird for an inordinately long period , and snapping many blurry photos , to the bemusement of the locals .
The islands are home to a spectacular array of endemic species , with 80 % of land birds , 97 % of reptiles and land mammals , and 30 % of plants being found nowhere else in the world . Sadly , they have not always received the same level of protection and respect that they enjoy today . Throughout history , European sailors pillaged the islands for their natural resources , and in the process also introduced many pests . Numerous species , including the magnificent Galapagos tortoises , were driven to the edge of extinction . It wasn ’ t until 1959 that the significant ecological value of the islands was fully appreciated by the Ecuadorian government and the Galapagos archipelago was declared a national park . been declared extinct in 1906 . Pinta Island ’ s population of giant tortoises was decimated by whalers who collected the animals to use as a ready source of meat during their voyages . Introduced goats also removed much of the island ’ s natural vegetation ( the food source for the tortoises ), and a combination of these factors ultimately led to the extinction of the tortoises .
Extraordinarily , however , in 1971 a single adult male tortoise was discovered roaming the island of Pinta by an American snail biologist conducting research . Subsequently christened Lonesome George , overnight the tortoise became both the world ’ s rarest animal species and an international celebrity . George was transported to the Charles Darwin Research Station on the island of Santa Cruz , where he went on to live happily for another 40 years , educating tens of thousands of visitors and many millions more people around the world through documentaries about the devastation of his species . Despite a global search to find George a mate , sadly his valuable genes were never passed on . Lonesome George unexpectedly passed away in June 2012 and his species was lost forever .
After his death , Lonesome George ’ s body was sent to the American Museum of Natural History in New York , where he was preserved by taxidermists . He returned home to the Galapagos in early 2017 . Visiting the Charles Darwin Research Station and walking into the dimly lit , cold , air-conditioned room where George is on display was a sobering experience . I felt like I was in the presence of a truly special creature . Every person who entered the room remained completely silent – no doubt quietly reflecting on the important message George will always hold for us . Lonesome George will forever bear poignant witness to the fragility of all species and serve as a reminder of our responsibility to better protect and conserve all animals .
Today , strict quarantine measures are in place to protect this fragile ecosystem from further damage . It was interesting to see the flight attendants spraying Top of Descent ( commonly used as a reptile mite treatment in Australia ) on the carry-on luggage prior to landing in the islands , as a precautionary measure against any biological stowaways .
Perhaps the single most iconic animal from the Galapagos , whose fascinating story best symbolises the struggle for survival of endangered species worldwide , is ‘ Lonesome George ’. George was a Pinta Island Tortoise ( Chelonoidis abingdonii ) whose species had
Left : there are 11 remaining species of Galapagos giant tortoise . Right : ‘ Lonesome George ’ will forever bear witness to the fragility of all species . All images by Sam Dessen .
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