iHerp Australia Issue 1 | Page 34

’s t ha W NE Miraculously providing simple explanations Miraculously providing simple explanations for things that are, in reality, for things that are, in reality, EXTREMELY EXTREMELY COMPLICATED ! COMPLICATED!! What thermal GRADIENT gradient What is is a a THERMAL why do one? I need one? & and why do I need Well, the short answer is that you don’t need one – if you’re not a reptile. Unlike mammals and birds (or endotherms), reptiles (ectotherms) are unable to generate their own metabolic body heat (with the possible exception of some brooding pythons). However, although they are often referred to as ‘cold blooded’, many reptiles have a ‘preferred body temperature’ (PBT) that is very similar to that of humans. Reptiles must therefore rely on an external heat source in their environment. Basking in direct sunlight is their typical method of raising body temperature; once they are warm enough they can then move off and under- take normal daily activities such as foraging for food and looking for a potential mate. Maintaining adequate body heat is also essential for physiological processes such as digestion. During the course of the day, reptiles will manage their body temperature by moving between warmer and cooler locations; a process known as ‘shuttling’. In cool weather they may spend longer periods basking, and in winter months, when there may be insufficient heat to keep them at normal operating temperatures, they may enter a period of inactivity, or torpor, known as brumation (which is similar to the familiar concept of hibernation but not as extreme). Reptiles can easily overheat, and besides moving to a cooler, shady spot, will also attempt to lose heat by strategies such as gaping. This whole process of actively regulating temperature is known as thermoregulation. Ok, but what are the implications for your captive reptiles at home? Well, in the great outdoors, it shouldn’t be too difficult for a reptile to seek out a cooler or warmer area, as required. What about in an enclosure that is only, say, 90cm long? The trick is to emulate the temperature range of the animal’s natural environment in a very small space. In order for our captive reptiles to effectively thermoregulate, we must provide an appropriate temperature gradient within the enclosure. It’s no good, for example, keeping the whole enclosure at one temperature, because the animal cannot then heat up or cool down when it needs to. Left: your heat source should be posi- tioned at one end of the enclosure; note the compact UV light. Image by Sam Dessen. Right: this enclosure is set up specifically for pygmy monitors, which have a high thermal requirement. In this instance, a thermostat is used to control night time heating. A thermo- stat and a probe thermometer can be invaluable assets.