Home and Table Magazine: Greater Philadelphia Edition Spring2017 - Page 43

I t was an unassuming walk past an unassuming warehouse in Pitts- burgh’s Strip District that planted the seed for their first cookbook, Onions Etcetera: The Essential Allium Cookbook (Burgess Lea Press), published in February. “There were these huge bags and piles of onions,” Guy Ambrosino says. “Thousands and thousands of onions just getting ready to be shipped off to grocery stores. That visually inspired me.” Kate Winslow and Guy Ambrosino first met back in Santa Fe in the early 2000s at a local newspaper, where he was the staff photographer and she was the food editor. The couple moved to New York City, where Winslow worked as an editor at Gourmet magazine and Ambrosino, as a freelance photographer. After some time—and the birth of their son—they made their next move. Fabrizia Lanza, the famed chef and author, invited them to Sicily to work with her on her next cookbook. “If something sounds great, we aren’t going to say no,” Winslow says. “Life and work weave in the way we want it to. It doesn’t always work out, but it’s the experience as well.” Their stay yielded Coming Home to Sicily (Sterling Epicure, 2012), which describes Lanza’s experience of returning home, after living abroad, to run the cooking school founded by her mother, peppered with tens of time-honored family recipes. It was in the transition from Sicily to the family’s return to the States, to Lambertville, New Jersey, this time, when the couple started seriously considering the onion. “I love how prosaic onions are,” Winslow says. “They’re such an everyday thing, and I like everyday things. They’re the workhorse.” Accordingly, then, Onions Etcetera is an ode to the staple’s diversity, ver- satility and longevity, documented in rich, appetizing detail. Recipes fol- low the seasons and ebb and flow between coaxing subtle nuances to amplifying already-loud flavors. “And what we realized,” Ambrosino says, putting his espresso down to finish his thought, “they are beautiful objects to work with—their layers, their colors, their roots and shoots. Natural, dirty and beautiful, directly from the ground.” And, of course, tasty. This is a cookbook we’re discussing, after all. Case in point: the onion taco. “It was a mind-blowing experience,” Winslow says of her first brush with it in Pittsburgh, a few years back. “The onion taco is just all about the onion. I have my own version in the book and it really highlights the depth of the onion.” Winslow and Ambrosino appear to be every bit as grounded and lay- ered as their subject. For one, they’re donating a portion of their cook- book’s profits to Wholesome Wave, a nonprofit that aims to create easier access to locally grown food. Through their Lambertville studio, And We Ate, they develop, cook and shoot recipes for an impressive roster of local clients, including The Farm Cooking School, Agricola and Applegate, as well as their own projects, always with an attractive humility that makes it feel like a mom-and-pop shop. Their work celebrates the primal signals that draw us to the table—chars, browned crusts, kaleidoscopic palettes, free-flowing juices and sauces. It ( 2FVvFgVfBffW&VBBf"6p'WBf"FRWW&V6RbFvW7FrBWfW'v'WBFW&V( BW7BGvFW( &RF&VRBFV"ƗfW2F( B&WffRVЧF&Vǒ&VBfBFV"6VƖ&fFW2VF&VƗG6V6( v&FW2W7V66g&7Fbג'&( v6r62( Ğ( 7FǒЧv2F涖r&WB&VFr( 7FvVƖfRBv&&R6G&6FVǐVFvVBB6vWBFff7VBFF7FwV6vW&RRVfW2fbBFPFW"7F'G2'WBFRVBbVƖ( 266FW&W2R&VBWBbFP7GVFFvWBWv&BFW"7F'FVBB6v2FRFW"F7F'@FGrW6RVG2( FR7BvRvWBvg&W"v&2vVvR&RvF( Ц'&662fƖr&vvFVFRw&F66( Ć^( 0FW&W7FVB6FW"Fw2ƖR&6WF&vW2ǒN( 0vBBw&VFr( Ю( ĒƖRvBvRF( v6r62( vR&V( B6WFFfRVR( Ю( ( '&6627W'fWrFR&( F22W2( УC0VGF&VvR65$r#p