Hello Monaco magazine Winter 2018 - issue HM02 - Page 76

fine dining
truffles with the local but world-famous reds , Brunello di Montalcino or Nobile di Montepulciano . And in this case , one cannot say no to savouring the wine along with the prince of steaks , the Tuscan Chianina , topped with shavings of white truffle . Aromatic white wines also go down well with truffles , why not try pairing white truffle with a Chardonnay from the Langhe area or a Timorasso white from Piemonte .
« It ’ s into the woods we go , we go .... tra la la » The truffle enthusiast ’ s passion – hunting the treasure

On a crisp Piemonte morning , Luigi leads us up muddy slopes ,

through green grass and vibrant autumn leaves as Amadeo , his prized dog , darts forward , sniffing at the ground . His tail wagging furiously as he catches the scent . The little tuber cannot be seen , hidden several centimetres below , close to the roots of a gnarled oak tree . But Amadeo is drawn to it like a bee to pollen and he begins jabbing at the ground with his front paws . Luigi and Amadeo exchange a knowing glance before he starts digging . We all hold our breath as earth sprays skywards and Amadeo zones in on the prized nugget . And yes – he strikes gold . « The truffle is a sensory emotion . It ’ s an aromatic dream more than just a taste », says Luigi . His family has scoured these woods for generations . « It ’ s an emotional moment when you find it . It ’ s ecstasy later when you eat it ». Luigi is carried away almost in a trance « My memory of finding my first truffle is still vivid like I remember my first love , my first caress , my first embrace . Like that potent first kiss , it ’ s impossible to emulate ». His wife Larissa ’ s eyebrows are raised and a dangerous glint in her eyes brings Luigi ’ s reminiscing to a stuttering halt ! Luigi dashes over and from his pocket emerge tantalizing gorgonzola treats for Amadeo to draw his attention away from his find . This unearthed pearl , this beauty at 40 grams may be worth 250 euros . Easily distracted by the treasure , Amadeo greedily gulps down his cheesy rewards . Kneeling down and carefully brushing away the soil with all the intensity of an archaeologist unearthing the mask of Tutankhamen at the Pyramids , Luigi works around the truffle with a special mini-spade or vanghetto . At first sight the find resembles a knobbly , small earthcovered potato . But lying inside is a marbled interior , tan with creamy , ivory veins , and the scent is intoxicating . The firm texture and pungent aroma all point to its freshness and ripeness . It feels warm in the palm ; then there is the earthy musk that starts to tantalize the nostrils . Luigi says : « The smell builds and then lingers in your mind for days ; when savoured , the taste is delicate in your mouth , but the aroma is from the gods !»
No more pigging out !

Traditionally , pigs were used to hunt truffles because they have the

sensitive snouts required for the job . But their use is now banned in Italy as they damage the root systems where the truffles nestle . And we are not talking about sweet Miss Piggy from the Muppets . Never get between a 250-kilogram pig and a truffle it ’ s focused on eating ! Amadeo is a mix of Springer spaniel , Segugio Italiano and setter . Like his owners , Amadeo is from a long line of truffle hunters . His is a hardy mongrel mix that ensures vitality , stamina and a keen
White truffles are nearly always best twinned with simple food », says Larissa . This is innate in the magic of Italian cooking . sense of smell . While Luigi and Amadeo walk ahead , Luigi whispers to him in Piemontese an ancient regional dialect still alive among the trifulau . « It ’ s important to know your dog , have empathy with it just like with a mistress », explains Luigi , as the dangerous glint in Larissa ’ s eyes becomes a frown on her forehead . « I learn something special from my dog on every hunt », says Luigi . « Every day you have a new experience ».
The International Truffle Fair at Alba ( Fiera Internazionale Tartufo Bianco d ’ Alba , 7th October to 26th of November )

Six weeks of heaven are just a hop , skip and a jump away in the

delightful picturesque town of Alba . In Piemonte , the truffle season is now in full swing and its centrepiece is The International White Truffle Fair , held from 7 October to 26 November . Descending on this wine and truffle lover ’ s paradise are a few other delicasies whose season revolves around this internationally recognised event . Did we say just a few ?! Let ’ s say hordes . It is an absolute hive of
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74 / Hello Monaco – Winter 2018
fine dining truffles with the local but world-famous reds, Brunello di Montalcino or Nobile di Montepulciano. And in this case, one cannot say no to savouring the wine along with the prince of steaks, the Tuscan Chianina, topped with shavings of white truffle. Aromatic white wines also go down well with truffles, why not try pairing white truffle with a Chardonnay from the Langhe area or a Timorasso white from Piemonte. «It’s into the woods we go, we go .... tra la la» The truffle enthusiast’s passion – hunting the treasure O n a crisp Piemonte morning, Luigi leads us up muddy slopes, through green grass and vibrant autumn leaves as Amadeo, his prized dog, darts forward, sniffing at the ground. His tail wagging furiously as he catches the scent. The little tuber cannot be seen, hidden several centimetres below, close to the roots of a gnarled oak tree. But Amadeo is drawn to it like a bee to pollen and he begins jabbing at the ground with his front paws. Luigi and Amadeo exchange a knowing glance before he starts digging. We all hold our breath as earth sprays skywards and Amadeo zones in on the prized nugget. And yes – he strikes gold. «The truffle is a sensory emotion. It’s an aromatic dream more than just a taste», says Luigi. His family has scoured these woods for generations. «It’s an emotional moment when you find it. It’s ecstasy later when you eat it». Luigi is carried away almost in a trance «My memory of finding my first truffle is still vivid like I remember my first love, my first caress, my first embrace. Like that potent first kiss, it’s impossible to emulate». His wife Larissa’s eyebrows are raised and a dangerous glint in her eyes brings Luigi’s reminiscing to a stuttering halt! Luigi dashes over and from his pocket emerge tantalizing gorgonzola treats for Amadeo to draw his attention away from his find. This unearthed pearl, this beauty at 40 grams may be worth 250 euros. Easily distracted by the treasure, Amadeo greedily gulps down his cheesy rewards. Kneeling down and carefully brushing away the soil with all the intensity of an archaeologist unearthing the mask of Tutankhamen at the Pyramids, Luigi works around the truffle with a special mini-spade or vanghetto. At first sight the find resembles a knobbly, small earth- covered potato. But lying inside is a marbled interior, tan with creamy, ivory veins, and the scent is intoxicating. The firm texture and pungent aroma all point to its freshness and ripeness. It feels warm in the palm; then there is the earthy musk that starts to tantalize the nostrils. Luigi says: «The smell builds and then lingers in your mind for days; when savoured, the taste is delicate in your mouth, but the aroma is from the gods!» No more pigging out! T raditionally, pigs were used to hunt truffles because they have the sensitive snouts required for the job. But their use is now banned in Italy as they damage the root systems where the truffles nestle. And we are not talking about sweet Miss Piggy from the Muppets. Never get between a 250-kilogram pig and a truffle it’s focused on eating! Amadeo is a mix of Springer spaniel, Segugio Italiano and setter. Like his owners, Amadeo is from a long line of truffle hunters. His is a hardy mongrel mix that ensures vitality, stamina and a keen sense of smell. While Luigi and Amadeo walk ahead, Luigi whispers to him in Piem o ntes e an ancient regional dialect still alive among the trifulau. «It’s important to know your dog, have empathy with it just like with a mistress», explains Luigi, as the dangerous glint in Larissa’s eyes becomes a frown on her forehead. «I learn something special from my dog on every hunt», says Luigi. «Every day you have a new experience». White truffles are nearly always best twinned with simple food», says Larissa. This is innate in the magic of Italian cooking. © infoglaz 'PsBV6( 2vFW"#FRFW&FG'VffRf B&fW&FW&RF'GVf&6N( &wF7F&W"F#gFbfV&W"0vVV2bVfV&RW7B6BVvFPFVƖvFgV7GW&W7VRFvb&VFRFRG'VffR6V6গ2rgV7vrBG26VG&WV6R2FRFW&FvFPG'VffRf"VBg&r7F&W"F#bfV&W"FW66VFrF2vRBG'VffRfW.( 2&F6R&RfWrFW FVƖ66W2v6R6V6&WffW2&VBF2FW&Fǒ&V6v6V@WfVBFBvR6W7BfWsWN( 26&FW2B2'6WFRfR`*fvW76֖6