fine dining
truffles with the local but world-famous reds , Brunello di Montalcino or Nobile di Montepulciano . And in this case , one cannot say no to savouring the wine along with the prince of steaks , the Tuscan Chianina , topped with shavings of white truffle . Aromatic white wines also go down well with truffles , why not try pairing white truffle with a Chardonnay from the Langhe area or a Timorasso white from Piemonte .
« It ’ s into the woods we go , we go .... tra la la » The truffle enthusiast ’ s passion – hunting the treasure
On a crisp Piemonte morning , Luigi leads us up muddy slopes , through green grass and vibrant autumn leaves as Amadeo , his prized dog , darts forward , sniffing at the ground . His tail wagging furiously as he catches the scent . The little tuber cannot be seen , hidden several centimetres below , close to the roots of a gnarled oak tree . But Amadeo is drawn to it like a bee to pollen and he begins jabbing at the ground with his front paws . Luigi and Amadeo exchange a knowing glance before he starts digging . We all hold our breath as earth sprays skywards and Amadeo zones in on the prized nugget . And yes – he strikes gold . « The truffle is a sensory emotion . It ’ s an aromatic dream more than just a taste », says Luigi . His family has scoured these woods for generations . « It ’ s an emotional moment when you find it . It ’ s ecstasy later when you eat it ». Luigi is carried away almost in a trance « My memory of finding my first truffle is still vivid like I remember my first love , my first caress , my first embrace . Like that potent first kiss , it ’ s impossible to emulate ». His wife Larissa ’ s eyebrows are raised and a dangerous glint in her eyes brings Luigi ’ s reminiscing to a stuttering halt ! Luigi dashes over and from his pocket emerge tantalizing gorgonzola treats for Amadeo to draw his attention away from his find . This unearthed pearl , this beauty at 40 grams may be worth 250 euros . Easily distracted by the treasure , Amadeo greedily gulps down his cheesy rewards . Kneeling down and carefully brushing away the soil with all the intensity of an archaeologist unearthing the mask of Tutankhamen at the Pyramids , Luigi works around the truffle with a special mini-spade or vanghetto . At first sight the find resembles a knobbly , small earthcovered potato . But lying inside is a marbled interior , tan with creamy , ivory veins , and the scent is intoxicating . The firm texture and pungent aroma all point to its freshness and ripeness . It feels warm in the palm ; then there is the earthy musk that starts to tantalize the nostrils . Luigi says : « The smell builds and then lingers in your mind for days ; when savoured , the taste is delicate in your mouth , but the aroma is from the gods !»
No more pigging out !
Traditionally , pigs were used to hunt truffles because they have the sensitive snouts required for the job . But their use is now banned in Italy as they damage the root systems where the truffles nestle . And we are not talking about sweet Miss Piggy from the Muppets . Never get between a 250-kilogram pig and a truffle it ’ s focused on eating ! Amadeo is a mix of Springer spaniel , Segugio Italiano and setter . Like his owners , Amadeo is from a long line of truffle hunters . His is a hardy mongrel mix that ensures vitality , stamina and a keen
White truffles are nearly always best twinned with simple food », says Larissa . This is innate in the magic of Italian cooking . sense of smell . While Luigi and Amadeo walk ahead , Luigi whispers to him in Piemontese an ancient regional dialect still alive among the trifulau . « It ’ s important to know your dog , have empathy with it just like with a mistress », explains Luigi , as the dangerous glint in Larissa ’ s eyes becomes a frown on her forehead . « I learn something special from my dog on every hunt », says Luigi . « Every day you have a new experience ».
The International Truffle Fair at Alba ( Fiera Internazionale Tartufo Bianco d ’ Alba , 7th October to 26th of November )
Six weeks of heaven are just a hop , skip and a jump away in the delightful picturesque town of Alba . In Piemonte , the truffle season is now in full swing and its centrepiece is The International White Truffle Fair , held from 7 October to 26 November . Descending on this wine and truffle lover ’ s paradise are a few other delicasies whose season revolves around this internationally recognised event . Did we say just a few ?! Let ’ s say hordes . It is an absolute hive of
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74 / Hello Monaco – Winter 2018