Harts of Stur Kitchen Issue 08, Winter 2018-19 | Page 22

Harts Kitchen Learn by Harts Cook Your Goose Beer expert Melissa Cole shows us how to use delicious dark ales to cook a Christmas feast J ust before you panic and think ‘god, a goose, that’s huge and expensive!’ let me just say you can use a couple of ducks instead, if you want, as that’s actually how this dish started life; just use the same amount of ingredients, distributed equally between the two birds, or reduce the ingredients by half for just one. And this isn’t just for Christmas; it makes for a great entertaining dish too because it’s basically make ahead and re-heat, freeing you up to spend more time with friends and family. You can prepare the bird up to three days in advance. And if you want to serve this with roast potatoes (why wouldn’t you?) you will get far crispier ones by par-boiling them the day before and refrigerating them, making this probably – almost certainly – the most hassle-free feast you’ll ever make. You will need a very deep, very large roasting tray (pan) for this and some turkey foil. About Melissa Cole One of the UK’s leading beer and food experts, Melissa Cole is an award-winning writer. From judging beers to brewing with some of the world’s best what she doesn’t know about beer isn’t worth knowing. Extracted from The Beer Kitchen by Melissa Cole (Hardie Grant, £20) Ale-roast Goose Serves 6–8 Ingredients 500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cups) smoked beer* (see box right) 500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cups) strong dark Belgian ale+ (see box right for some suggestions) 500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cups) milk stout (see ‘Cook’ beers to the right) 2 tablespoons soft brown sugar 4.5–5.5 kg (10–11 lb) whole goose 2 long carrots 2 large celery sticks 1 onion, quartered 1 garlic bulb, broken into cloves but not skinned 8 black peppercorns A good bouquet garni: bay leaves and your woody herbs of choice, such as sage, thyme, rosemary, oregano or marjoram 2 litres (70 fl oz/8 cups) good-quality chicken stock (if needed) Fine sea salt 30 ml (1 fl oz) Flanders red Method 1. Preheat the oven to 120°C (250°F/Gas 1/2) and boil the kettle full of water. 2. Warm the beers in a saucepan and add the sugar. 3. Pierce the goose skin all over, paying special attention to the fat pockets around the legs. Put the goose on a trivet, put it in the sink and pour the kettle of hot water over it. 4. Make a square ‘nest’ for the goose with the carrots and celery in a large roasting tin (pan), then scatter the onions, garlic, pepper and bouquet garni in the middle and place the goose on top, breast-side up. 5. Pour half the beer/sugar mixture over it and sprinkle lightly with fine salt, then turn breast-side down and repeat. 6. Add enough stock to the tin so the breast and most of the legs are covered (or as high as you dare, remembering you have to take it out when it’s hot!) and cook for 4–6 hours. 7. When the leg bone starts to come away easily, it’s done. Take out of the oven and allow to cool for at least an hour, uncovered in the pan. 8. Lift the goose out very carefully, making sure you empty the cavity of juices into the tin, but don’t throw the juices away! 9. Put the goose on a plate to cool. Put any juices from resting back in the tin, and put the goose in the refrigerator uncovered (if putting in a cold place like a garage, shed or larder instead, cover with muslin or something breathable). 10. Warm the roasting tin on the hob and scrape the bits off the bottom, then pass the liquid through a fine sieve into a tall and thin receptacle 22 www.hartsofstur.com