Harper's Bazaar March 2016 - Page 277

IMAXTREE; STILL LIFE: COURTESY ERDEM This allure with the feminine is perhaps what has also kept him from venturing into menswear.The designer says he has no plans of ever creating a line for men.“I think at the moment, my world is so much about a woman that I just can’t think about it. I’m just much more comfortable in my world of womenswear.” Of course, there is also the stress menswear could add to the existing responsibilities of creating over four collections per year. It’s no secret that mounting industry pressures have led to some very high profile exits last year: Raf Simons from Dior,Alber Elbaz from Lanvin, and Jonathan Saunders from his own label. Moralioglu acknowledges this, but isn’t particularly discouraged by it. “There’s a lot of pressure, obviously. But at the same time, I also think that doing pre collections is an opportunity to explore ideas before exploring anything more concrete on the runway,” he says. That’s the thing about Moralioglu—he’s rarely disheartened. Though he admits to be “constantly dreaming and looking for inspiration” whether it’s at his studio listening to music or at his favourite galleries in London or Paris, it’s not as if he’s all work and no play.“He is quite fun. He’s always up and engaged and is very interactive,” says Noah Shelley,who has been the casting director for several of his shows, including Spring 2016. “We often have these‘pull-up contests’where we spontaneously break into pull-ups to see who can do more. But when it comes to work, he’s very focused. You can see that he loves what he does.” At 37,with a flagship in London and future stores planed in “NewYork, Paris, or Japan”, Moralioglu has created a world of multiple stories and dreams. So what’s his favourite story or collection? “I don’t have one. I’m always working on trying to create the next favourite.” n (This page) Erdem Spring 2016. Erdem shoes and sunglasses, prices upon request. (Opposite page) Backstage at Erdem Spring 2016. 277