Harper's Bazaar March 2016 - Page 276

The designer also has a strong reputation for being a perfectionist and admits that his “unhealthy book obsession”may be one of the reasons behind his fascination with telling stories.“I love the idea of a narrative. I like the fact that [the character] changes. I mean, there are definitely parts of her that are connected to previous seasons but I also love the idea of a new character every season and something else that kind of happens to her. I always feel like everything is a chapter in her life.” For his Spring 2016 show, he projected his captivation with Victoriana and a sense of demure femininity through his intricately detailed floor-length and mid-calf dresses.The inspiration:European migrant women from the 1860s who came to settle in America with all their clothes and belongings. But where do his characters come from?“I’m a very visual person. I’m always looking at [everything from] books to films to music for inspiration. There’s not one single character that inspires my creations because my muse changes every season,” says Moralioglu. Celebrity makeup artistVal Garland, who has worked on a number of his shows, recalls how intimidated she was the first time she went to work with the designer. “When you look at his clothes, there is such an attention to detail; everything is well thought out, well planned, and meticulous. The first time I went to work with Erdem, going into his atelier was daunting.” Garland calls his approach to creativity and business “militarian”. “His passion for having to be absolutely right means that sometimes things have to change. And I like the fact that he won’t stop until it’s righ