Harper's Bazaar March 2016 - Page 117

L U C I A S I LV E S T R I , B U L G A R I “More than 10 years ago in Sri Lanka, I saw a huge raw sapphire of over 500 carats. The owner was a supplier whom I knew for many years. And for seven years, I continued to see the sapphire untouched and unchanged on his gem table. Finally, he decided to cut it, and knew that a stone of this size and quality could only be a Bulgari gem. When I finally met him, I was disappointed. The colour and consistency were there, but there was no light, no soul. To avoid wasting carats, he had chosen the wrong cut for the stone. Over the next two years, I had to convince him to cut it down (eventually) to 125 carats, from which we crafted the Love’s Paradise necklace.” G AU TA M G H A N A S I N G H , GHANASINGH BE TRUE “Inspired by the Indian peacock, this hand harness is part of our 111th Anniversary collection: Birds of Paradise. Encrusted with tanzanites, amethysts, Mozambican emeralds, fiery orange garnets, and cheery yellow topaz, along with clear diamonds, the piece includes an intricate gold foiling along with an antique polish, projecting a blend of western and contemporary designs.” Ghanasingh Be True hand harness, price upon request. Gehna earrings, price upon request. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY BULGARI, GHANASINGH BE TRUE, GEHNA; FABERGÉ ARCHIVES PA L L AV I F O L E Y “I have always been inspired by the Fabergé eggs, right from school. What inspired me were their simple shapes, with a multitude of details their craftsmen achieved on the three-dimensional forms. Their structures were complex, and made with extreme precision. Textures, gemstones, finishes, all seamlessly came together to express a theme. It changed me forever, and I think my three-dimensional jewellery and sculptural flair was inspired by Fabergé. S U N I L DAT WA N I , G E H N A Fabergé Rose Trellis egg, not for sale. “Often my mind wanders to the jewels of the Nizams of Hyderabad, possibly the largest and richest collection of jewels in India. So when a dear friend asked me to design something for his daughter’s kanyadaan, I wanted to design a keepsake, an heirloom inspired by the Nizami treasures. My rewards were the father’s moist eyes and the daughter’s childlike delight. An extremely special moment of their lives that I had the good fortune to be part of.” ä 117