Harper's Bazaar June 2018 - Page 56

STYLE Bazaar CH T A of this W s fan on e O r take an. l a a T u g ol a ayf E y G is pl dams D d N nd La r and h tthew A Within the first year of na a e a ign et M s e e g d s. M sic 56 By Divya Bala his brand’s launch in 2015, the collection Matthew Adams Dolan presented for his MFA graduation show at Parsons was stocked at Opening Ceremony NYC. In its second year, Rihanna pre-ordered his Spring 2016 line, almost in its entirety, sporting it in her first Fenty beauty campaign and the music video for Wild Thoughts (201 7). Now in his third year, the designer has been announced as a finalist for the prestigious LVMH Prize after a successful second outing at New York Fashion Week. At the presentation for his Fall/Winter 2018 collection, 18-year-old Mumbai-born model Naomi Janumala opened the show. “When it comes to casting, I have always thought it to be very important to be representative of diversity. As an American brand, based in New York, you need to be indicative of what the country really looks like,” says Dolan about making this choice. Something of a multicultural mix himself, Dolan was born in Boston and raised in Sydney, Japan, and Switzerland, before moving to settle in the Big Apple. (His atelier is in South Seaport in New York.) “We wanted the first look to be a strong statement of something that felt very simple and effortless, that is what the essence of American fashion comes down to. Naomi perfectly embodies the confident spirit of the youth.” It’s true that there is an inherent coolness sewn into Dolan’s pieces. Proportion play has become something of a signature for the designer, evidenced by his Spring 2018 line. As is so often his starting point, Dolan took American workwear classics and experimented on them with varying degrees of volume, resulting in blown-out button-up shirting, generous cable-knit cardigans, trucker jackets cut with swing backs, and blazers with linebacker shoulders. Over the next few months, Dolan will be working on his next collection to be presented in September in New York. He also plans on expanding the business and his team—at the moment he is the only one working on the creative aspects—and he hopes to take a trip to India. “I have always been obsessed with Wes Anderson’s The Darjeeling Limited (2007) and that really made me want to visit. And the food, of course. My dad taught himself to cook so many Indian dishes. He would spend the whole day in the kitchen cooking curries for us,” says Dolan. n