Harper's Bazaar June 2018 - Page 109

HIGH NOTE

For the launch of the Twilly d ’ Hermès Le Bain collection , perfumer Christine Nagel speaks exclusively to Bazaar about being inspired by playfulness and her love for fragrances
ALL IMAGES COURTESY THE BRAND
Last year , Hermès ’ s first ‘ millenial ’ fragrance burst onto the perfume scene with its exuberant ginger and tuberose notes — a white floral with a fun twist . This year , to give it greater lasting power , the brand has extended Twilly ( the name refers to the slim Hermès scarves that women often tie to their handbags ) into an entire bathtime experience with a perfume , soap , body wash , and moisturiser to indulge in . What was the idea behind the extensive Twilly d ’ Hermès Le Bain range ? Seeing . Smelling . Touching . Discovering . Listening . Melting .
A bathtime ritual is an invitation to all the senses , and offers a perfuming experience just as intense , intimate , and special as applying perfume itself . The concentration is not the same , and so you can apply several layers with the Twilly d ’ Hermès . While creating the Twilly , what was your aim ? I was inspired by young women who turn convention on its head , who are creative , almost irreverent . Playfulness is in their nature . I observed them , watched them lead their lives , and I got a sense of them . I then discovered an obvious connection between Hermès ’ s free spirit and these young women . To represent them , I chose three ingredients and gave them a twist : Tuberose , ginger , and sandalwood . Which is your favourite product from the collection ? No favourites — they are all my children , but as I ’ m especially sensitive to texture perhaps it would be the Moisturizing Body Balm . Was there a moment in your life when you knew that you wanted to be a ‘ nose ’? I remember it like it was yesterday . I had this absolute certainty that I will be a perfumer , that I had to be a perfumer . It was obvious , a necessity .
I belong to a generation where there are very few women perfumers . When I started , nothing predisposed me to this profession . On the contrary , I had a number of handicaps — I was not the daughter of a perfumer , I did not come from Grasse , and I was a woman . At that time , to be a woman and a perfumer were incompatible . Fortunately , times have changed , and I am very thrilled about women becoming stronger , even in fields usually dominated by men . Tell us of a scent memory that stands out clearly in your mind . The smell of Borotalco , the Italian talcum powder that my mother used . It was a constant during my
Christine Nagel childhood , and my first real olfactory memory . I am still drawn to products that contain some of the elements that make up that talc . It ’ s my version of Proust ’ s madeleine . What is a note that you particularly enjoy working with , and why ? My love fluctuates and I have no preconceptions about any ingredients . When I discover an ingredient , I want to know everything — I want to knead it , crush it , work it , experiment with it . I want to take it where I like , coax it . I want to push its boundaries . I want to force it , tame it . I work sparingly , with few raw materials , because I ’ m convinced that what matters is by definition simple .
At Hermès , the beauty of raw materials is central to all their crafts . It ’ s an absolute luxury that lets me go where no one else goes . Fragrance is so entwined with nostalgia . Is there something that you are nostalgic for ? I don ’ t think about nostalgia but about emotion . Fragrances create emotions and touch the sensibilities of the people that will wear it . They resonate with our memories and hopes , because they represent something personal and emotional . n
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HIGH NOTE For the launch of the Twilly d’Hermès Le Bain collection, perfumer Christine Nagel speaks exclusively to Bazaar about being inspired by playfulness and her love for fragrances Last year, Hermès’s first ‘millenial’ fragrance burst onto the perfume scene with its exuberant ginger and tuberose notes— a white floral with a fun twist. This year, to give it greater lasting power, the brand has extended Twilly (the name refers to the slim Hermès scarves that women often tie to their handbags) into an entire bathtime experience with a perfume, soap, body wash, and moisturiser to indulge in. What was the idea behind the extensive Twilly d’Hermès Le Bain range? Seeing. Smelling. Touching. Discovering. Listening. Melting. A bathtime ritual is an invitation to all the senses, and offers a perfuming experience just as intense, intimate, and special as applying perfume itself. The concentration is not the same, and so you can apply several layers with the Twilly d’Hermès. While creating the Twilly, what was your aim? I was inspired by young women who turn convention on its head, who are creative, almost irreverent. Playfulness is in their nature. I observed them, watched them lead their lives, and I got a sense of them. I then discovered an obvious connection between Hermès’s free spirit and these young women. To represent them, I chose three ingredients and gave them a twist: Tuberose, ginger, and sandalwood. Which is your favourite product from the collection? No favourites—they are all my children, but as I’m especially sensitive to texture perhaps it would be the Moisturizing Body Balm. Was there a moment in your life when you knew that you wanted to be a ‘nose’? I remember it like it was y \\^KHY\X]H\Z[B]H[HH\[Y\]HYHH\[Y\]\›؝[\HX\]KH[ۙH[\][ۈ\H\H\H\H]Y[\[Y\ˈ[H\Y [Y\YYH\œٙ\[ۋۈH۝\KHYB[X\و[X\%H\B]Y\وH\[Y\HYYHHܘ\K[H\BX[]][YKHHX[[H\[Y\\H[\]XKܝ[][K[Y\]H[Y [H[H\H[YX]Y[XZ[ۙ\][[Y[\X[HZ[]YHY[[\وH[Y[[ܞH][]X\H[[\Z[ HY[وܛ[H][X[[[H\]^H[\\Y ]\Hۜ[\[^B[ [^H\X[\[HY[XܞHY[[ܞKH[H[]ۂX]۝Z[YHقH[[Y[]XZH\][ˈ]8&\^H\[ۈق\8&\XY[Z[K]\HH][H\X[\H[Hܚ[] [O“^HݙHXX]\[H]HXۘ\[ۜX][H[ܙYY[ˈ[H\ݙ\[[ܙYY[ H[šۛ]\][%H[ۙXY] ܝ\] ܚ] ^\[Y[]] H[ZH]\HHZK^] H[\][\Y\ˈH[ܘH] [YH] Hܚ\[K]]]X]\X[X]\Hx&[B۝[Y]]X]\\HY[][ۈ[\K]\pHX]]Hو]X]\X[\[[[Z\ܘYˈ]8&\[X]H^\H]]YH\BۙH[H\˂Yܘ[H\[[Y][XK\\BY][][H\H[X܏’H۸&][X][XH]X][[[ۋYܘ[\ܙX]H[[[ۜ[XH[X[]Y\قH[H][X\] ^H\ۘ]H]\Y[[ܚY\[\X]\H^H\\[Y][œ\ۘ[[[[[ۘ[ QHTHVHԈURSŒL