23. A CARAVAN’S LAMPS
(POSITION/STOP/TURN-
SIGNAL/END OUTLINE/SIDE
MARKER)…
(a) Operate best on 230V
(b) Need to be tapped moderately hard if they
do not operate reliably
(c) Should be checked for correct operation
before setting off on a trip
24. WHEN TOWING A
CARAVAN, ADDED OR
EXTENDED MIRRORS…
(a) Slow you down appreciably because of
the very high air resistance
(b) Must be used so as to obtain a clear field
of view along each side of the vehicle
(c) Should only be fitted when going offroad
on dusty tracks
25. WHEN TOWING A
CARAVAN, THE TIME AND
DISTANCE NEEDED TO
ACCELERATE FROM 60-
80KM/H (COMPARED TO JUST
DRIVING THE TOW VEHICLE
ON ITS OWN) ARE…
(a) Hardly worth worrying about
(b) Appreciably longer
(c) Around 10 seconds and 50m longer
26. WHEN TOWING A
CARAVAN/TRAILER, THE TIME
AND DISTANCE NEEDED TO
SLOW DOWN FROM 80-
60KM/H (COMPARED TO
DRIVING THE TOW VEHICLE
ON ITS OWN) ARE…
(a) Around 5 seconds and 100m shorter,
because of the additional brakes
(b) Again, hardly worth worrying about
(c) Appreciably longer
27. WHEN TOWING A
CARAVAN AROUND A CURVE,
YOU SHOULD…
(a) Speed up so that the caravan will ‘drift’
around the curve better
(b) Slow down because of the additional
centrifugal force and the risk of swaying
(c) ‘Cut the corner’ (especially on rough
roads) to increase the radius of the curve