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t all started when I met Bea Dolder,
a genial Swiss lady from the
European travel world. She was at
my table at the Sofitel as we judged
wines at one of Nikhil Aggarwal’s
always-memorable All Things Nice
events. When she heard I wrote
about quality golf to be found
around the world, she insisted
I taste what was on offer in
Switzerland! I have to tell you,
I was a little skeptical... So Bea
gets in touch with her good
friend David Kestens at the
Marketing office of Aletsch
Arena, a 2200 metre high
mountain-top UNESCO World
Heritage site, with the longest (23 kms) living
glacier in the Alps. And before you can say
lickety-spit, everything is arranged! My wife
Harinakshi and I were soon driving into
Morel, a nondescript town in Valais canton,
an hour east from Montreaux. Left our car
in the parking lot and went up the fenicular.
Because where we were headed, absolutely
no cars were allowed! We got off at Riederalp,
half way up the mountain. Often called Art
Furrer’s town, since he had built most of it.
Umpteen chalets available for rent. A short
but scenic walk gets you to another charming
village, Bettmeralp. Luckily, if you get tired, a
bus comes by every so often to take you to
your destination. Skiing in winter. And hiking
in summer. Amazing views of the grand
Valais mountains. Clean air at all times. The
absence of cars made for a mystical silence,
66 G o l f P l u s
DECEMBER
by Rahul Sood
Riederalp Golf Course
Chalet
Chalet
kman
Giles Hic
Mountain Side Hiking
offering a quality of tranquility rarely found
today. Giving the visitor what we feel was
one of the most liberating natural experiences
available in the Alps. And guess what? Slap in
the middle of town was this absolutely dainty,
fairyland-like 9-hole golf course: Riederalp GC.
Hi-energy David had me meet the club pro,
Giles Hickman, a lanky Brit. And the two of
us played a fun round. Most holes were only
around 150 metres. Occasional waterbodies,
trees and bushes here and there, and smallish
greens. No Pete Dye design here! More like a
pitch-and-putt. Each hole was named after the
famous mountains nearby, like Jungfrau, Dom
and Matterhorn. I had brought my full set of
clubs from Mumbai, which was complete
overkill. Giles toted all of two clubs: a 7 iron
and a putter! Ok, he did borrow my clubs
once in a rare while. Yet, I lost 5 Down! The
course’s location and views were amazing.
But it also had that quality where you felt a
2018
little elf or pixie was going to pop out of the
ground to give you a big smile and a special
wink! I must say I was captured. Then David
fed us a tasty meal of Kaseschnitte (bread
topped with baked cheese), a local specialty.
Before taking us further up by cable car to
Moosfluh, at the top of the mountain. To
see the expanse of the winding glacier in its
full grandeur. And watch hikers follow trails
down to the glacier base, or Marjelen Lake,
or lookout points Bettmerhorn or Eggishorn,
or, for the most intrepid, walk across the
glacier surface itself. Sad to say, the Alps are
at risk. With global warming, the glaciers are
diminishing. So, if you like Switzerland (who
doesn’t?), want to take a mountain hike, and
catch a glimpse of one of nature’s wonders
before it is no more, head to Riederalp. And
the icing on the cake? You can leave your golf
set at home and yet play a memorable round
of golf there.