We stayed at Daikoku-ya, a ryokan that hosted samurai 1,200
years ago. Its owners are the eighth generation of their family
to run it. It was the simplest and the most authentic of the
ryokans, with rice paper screens dividing our group of four
sleeping couples. (Don’t snore!)
The next morning, our hosts bid us farewell. They waved
goodbye—rotating both hands back and forth, like washing
windows—until we disappeared over the hill.
Day Four
Hosokute, Ena (13.6 miles)
A beautiful day of walking along old stone and dirt footpaths
winding through forests of pine, cedar, maple, bamboo,
willows, wild azaleas, camelias, wisteria and ferns.
A section called the Juan-toge (Thirteen Passes) took
us along ridgetops with beautiful views on both sides. The
iconic cherry trees were in full bloom. Water was abundant
in waterfalls, creeks and rivers flowing in manmade culverts.
A stop at a little store provided a surprise touch of
home. In the wine section, the smiling faces of George and
Gene Guglielmo beamed from a display. The writing was in
Japanese, but there was no mistaking the bottles of Morgan
Hill’s famous Guglielmo wine. We bought a bottle and later
opened it, toasting the Guglielmo's atop a mountain pass
along the Nakasendo Way.
Day Five
Ena, Magome (11 miles)
Leaving Ena, we spent a glorious day walking through
farmlands and market towns.
GILROY • MORGAN HILL • SAN MARTIN
After lunch in
Nakatsugawa, there
was a lesson in generosity.
A few of us stopped in a small shop filled with beautiful,
hand-made clothing. Janet eyed a wool tunic and the shop
owner motioned for her to try it on. When she tried to
pay, the shop owner would not take her money. Giorgio
explained the Japanese spirit of generosity and their belief
that things are sometimes meant to belong to someone in
particular. Janet gave thanks in her best Japanese, “Arigato!”
That afternoon, we traveled the Magome mountain pass
toward Kiso Valley, arriving in the post town of Ochiai. It
was one of the best-preserved towns with some of the most
scenic views on the tour.
After a long day’s hike, we showered and then soaked in
the communal baths. Another lesson: If you have a tattoo,
cover it up! In Japan, tattoos are commonly associated with
the Japanese mafia.
Day Six
Magome, Tsumago (6.2 miles)
From Magome, we climbed Tsumago Pass and descended
through woodlands and past waterfalls before arriving in
Tsumago, another carefully-preserved historic post town,
The town has banned telephone poles, electric lines, vending
machines and parked cars along its main thoroughfare.
Day’s end meant a stop at the village “onsen” (thermal hot
spring) for a relaxing soak. Back at O-tsumago the dinner
included locally-caught ayu (trout) for dinner. Deep-fried
“trout on a stick” was served at every meal—we nicknamed it
Teddy Trout. The Japanese eat the fish heads; we opted not to.
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