bowl of water for us to “freshen up”. It was a welcome
ritual since there would be no showers or baths for the
10 days of our trek. Breakfast was served at 7:00 am
in the “dining tent” or at an outside table. We had a
choice of omelet, cereal and occasionally French toast
or pancakes, which we enjoyed with tea, coffee or hot
chocolate.
Day 2 involved more steep trails and a long sturdy
bridge spanning the rapids of the Prek Chu River. We
greeted passing tour groups with the Hindu salutation,
“Namaste,” and took in the beautiful canyon and
mountain views. After 4 ½ hours we arrived at the
Tshoka campsite (9,700 feet). After lunch, we hiked up
to a small, very old monastery and then further up the
trail as part of our altitude “readiness.” Back at camp,
I had my first encounter with the cold, wet fog that
would settle over us every afternoon. I retreated to my
tent to journal and stay warm, ate dinner at 6:30 pm,
then headed back to the tent to sleep.
I awoke on Day 3 feeling rested. Good thing, as
I needed my energy to hike a very steep and rocky
trail that cut through forests of rhododendrons and
magnolias. We were told to go at our own pace, so I
found myself behind the faster trekkers and ahead of
slower members of the group. I used this “alone time”
to contemplate and appreciate being in this unique
part of the world. After three hours, we made camp
at Phedang (11,200 feet). After a delicious lunch
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including Tibetan Hot Bread (like a soft pretzel but
better), we headed further up the mountain for an
hour of altitude preparation. Returning to camp, the
fog returned, creating a mystical, pastoral setting.
On Day 4 we caught a glimpse of Mt. Pandim
(22,000 feet) before the fog returned. It was a
magnificent scene only to be surpassed by the
arrival of runners competing in the first Mt.
Khangchendzonga Marathon. As we cheered them on,
I was amazed to see some wearing nothing more than
shirts and shorts!
We hiked to the top of a mountain that leveled off
on the approach to Dzongri (13,000 feet) and then
up another steep hill to reach our campsite. The rocky
trail was extremely steep with narrow switchbacks.
It felt like we were walking in the clouds. At the top
were a few outbuildings and a very small, rustic store
with goods sold by Nepalese women. I bought a wool
hat for my granddaughter, and beer to share with my
fellow hikers. We were greatly amused by a sign that
said “free wifi.” The password was “just kidding!”
At 13,000 feet, it was colder, and the misty fog
even more frigid.