Graffiti Galore The riverside neighborhood of Savamala has turned into quite the hipster neighborhood these days. Filled with graffiti and funky bars, exteriors appear run-down and crumbling but luckily this adds to the grungy appeal. Under the Brankov Bridge (Most) is a large staircase where the graffiti of Robin Williams popped up overnight, the day after he died. This tribute is heartbreaking but reminds a foreigner like me that in many ways, Serbians are just like me, mourning the tragic death of a role model shared around the world. Remnants of Hardship Belgrade’s recent tragedies are far from forgotten. A trip down the main boulevard of Kneza Milosa gives an unavoidable view of the ruins left from the 1999 NATO bombings. These have been left untouched for reasons many still debate some say in order to remember the tragedies of war, others attribute it to a lack of funding or a lack of agreement on what to do next. Whatever the reason, one cannot understand the complexities of this city without taking a closer look at this ghostlike memorial.