GAZELLE MAGAZINE WOMEN'S HISTORY MONTH EDITION | Page 65

CUISINE
Lazy River Grill ' s signature fried fish
among the others dotting the landscape . For the past decade , St . Cecelia Mexican Fish Fry has become the hot spot for fish . There , square fish and jack salmon are dished with chile rellenos , cheese tamales and bean tostados , a novel , successful menu spawning ungodly long lines . But that ’ s OK . Relax and wait your turn with a Mexican beer and enjoy the experience and entertainment , courtesy of St . Cecelia ’ s strolling mariachi band .
Hate standing in long lines ? St . Mary Magdalen God ’ s Cod Fish Fry has the answer . To help reduce long wait lines and to enhance the carry-out process , a drive-thru was established . Some consider it a divinely inspired solution to handle the dinner rush , which makes the drive-thru option a blessing – and a standout .
Chefs and restaurateurs love fried fish as much as anyone , especially John Marciano from Lazy River Grill and The Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co ’ s Kevin Nashan , who keep the oil hot year-round to fry up local fish and seafood . So what ’ s the difference between fish and seafood ? Marciano has the answer : Fish are caught out of a river , not the ocean . Marciano ’ s favorite fish is walleye , a house specialty , lightly fried and crisp and occasionally featured with a pretzel crumb coating .
Peacemaker ’ s menu , the creation of James Beard Foundation ’ s 2017 Best Chef : Midwest Kevin Nashan , combines seafood and fish , a menu mix that includes 40 percent poorboys . Nashan ’ s favorite is the catfish poorboy , which along with Peacemaker ’ s signature shrimp and oyster poorboys , unite elements designed to gratify cravings with a flavor profile based on small details .
“ Any attempt to make something delicious is really about a combination of small details ,” Nashan said . “ For our poorboys , it ’ s the remoulade and dredge , made of Ritz crackers , cornmeal and flour .”
Corbett is the author of “ The Gilded Table ,” “ Pushcarts & Stalls : The Soulard Market History Cookbooks ” and “ Unique Eats and Eateries of St . Louis .” She can be contacted at suzannecorbett @ me . com .
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