CUISINE
Tricky Eats
By Suzanne Corbett
Photo courtesy of Clementine ’ s Naughty and Nice Creamery
Trick or treat ! October ’ s rallying cry brings a smile to my face . And I ’ m not alone .
Halloween , along with all the mystical harvest festivals , brings lots of smiles to those who party and indulge in seasonal treats - treats that extend beyond fun-sized candy bars and anything pumpkin-spiced . Of course , I ’ m not suggesting abandoning the pumpkin- or cinnamon-spiced . Instead , I prefer to embrace unique treats associated with , and inspired by , the harvest season or autumn festivals shrouded in supernatural lore , such as Dia de los Muertos ( Day of the Dead ) and the Scot-Irish / Celtic tradition of Snap Apple Night .
Day of the Dead , which follows All Hallows ’ Eve ( Halloween ) and All Saints ’ Day , is celebrated the same as All Souls ’ Day on Nov . 2 . It ’ s the day when it ’ s believed the departed return to earth to party with family and friends , which is reason enough to hold a fiesta . To keep the spirits happy , Mexican households decorate elaborate table altars with food to honor the departed souls ; each customizing the altar ’ s menu with a loved one ’ s favorite foods , along with traditional confections , such as Day of the Dead Bread , baked into shapes that resemble bones , skulls and angels , and decadently decorated sugar-molded skulls .
Pumpkins play second fiddle to harvest apples during Snap Apple Night , considered an earlier version of Halloween . Snap Apple combines the mysterious elements of the season and rolls it into one hellacious party where fortunes are read and ghost stories retold . Music , dance and plenty of food and drink are featured , along with apple bobbing and snap apple , a game where participants use their teeth to try to snatch apples that have been impaled , along with a couple of lighted candles , on a wooden crossbar suspended from the ceiling . The snap apple cross is spun , and the brave and the foolhardy hope to grab an apple instead of a candle - a feat that is sure to bring admiration from the ladies in attendance .
Snap Apple Night and Day of the Dead traditions are still practiced locally . From Oct . 1 to Nov . 2 , Mexican bakeries along Cherokee Street will produce Day of the Dead breads
Be a little naughty on Halloween at Clementine ’ s Naughty and Nice Creamery , with Black Cherry Ash Ice Cream on an Orange Dreamsicle Cone .
and sugar skulls - treats expected to grace the altars during the Day of the Dead festivities at the Missouri History Museum ( Oct . 27 and 28 ).
To explore shadows from the past , visit the Campbell House Museum on Snap Apple Night ( Oct . 12 ), where one is encouraged to toast the spirits in the garden with a glass of locally brewed spirits . Return on Oct . 26 for Campbell House by Candlelight – the wake of Robert Campbell - and nibble on a Victorian treat called Funeral Cookies .
October ’ s mysterious harvest festivals have inspired local chefs to create their own tricky treats – “ spooktacular ” food finds designed to delight hungry goblin guests , who will quickly gobble them up .
For a chilling treat , consider Clementine ’ s Naughty and Nice Creamery ’ s Black Cherry Ash Ice Cream , created by St . Louis ’ own ice cream diva , Tamara Keefe , who recommends enjoying Black Cherry Ash scooped into an Orange Dreamsicle custom-baked cone .
River City Casino & Hotel ’ s pastry chef David Laufer has reimagined the candied apple by enrobing Gold Rush and Pixie Crunch apple varieties with a sinfully rich caramel , and rolling them in decadent accents , such as chopped candy bars . Counted among this year ’ s gourmet apples are the Cibare Signature Apple ( with crushed , Chewy Mooey cookies ), the Traditional ( butter pecans striped with chocolate ) and the S ’ mores ( mini marshmallows with graham crackers and chocolate chips ).
Finally , to satisfy carnivores , I offer two suggestions : West End Grill & Pub ’ s Blackened Bat Wings ( whole chicken wings ) with Blue Cheese Mornay Sauce , paired with a Charleville Pale Ale - a duo perfect to kill off the late-night munchies . To vanquish monstrous appetites , James Beard American Classic Award-winner Gioia ’ s Deli recommends its monster sandwich , the King Kong - built on toasted garlic-cheese bread , stacked with hot salami , bacon , and macaroni and cheese .
Corbett is the author of “ The Gilded Table ,” “ Pushcarts & Stalls : The Soulard Market History Cookbooks ” and “ Unique Eats and Eateries of St . Louis .” She can be contacted at suzannecorbett @ me . com .
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