Garuda Indonesia Colours Magazine October 2014 | Page 153
Travel | Seattle
151
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5 Senses – Taste
ALMOND
CROISSANT
The role salmon play in our local economy has been
eclipsed by technology giants. But they remain a critical
part of what makes Seattle…Seattle.
town. The Ballard neighbourhood was
populated by Scandinavian fishermen; there
were boatyards and shingle mills. And, in
1912, Ballard became the site of a project that
was way ahead of its time. Engineer Hiram
Chittenden understood that if the salmon
could not return to their spawning grounds,
they would die out, so he included a fish
ladder when engineering the Ballard Locks.
This custom bypass allows the salmon to find
their way home and fishing vessels to return
to the sheltered waters of Seattle’s lakes.
The fish ladder isn’t really a ladder: it’s more
an elongated staircase, a series of pools with
an entry on one side and a slightly raised exit
on the other side. The salmon leap up each
step, battling the downhill current. I find
it impossible not to cheer for them, even
though they are rushing towards their
own end. They are the definition of driven,
beating themselves against the obstacles
to reach their destination. At the locks,
there’s a window into a landing on that
staircase; you can look through the thick
glass at the fish pausing before tackling the
next series of steps. I take visitors there year
round for the exhibits that explain the
salmon migration, but it’s best to visit in late
summer when the population is at its highest.
About 35km from Seattle there’s another fish
ladder. A bridge spans Issaquah Creek and,
late in the season, you can look down and see
the waters are full with the battered fighters.
Their skin has turned red with age, their
bellies and sides are scraped from miles
and miles of hurling themselves against rocks
and tree roots and whatever else lies between
them and their original spawning grounds.
They are exhausted and they are nearly home.
The Coast Salish Native American tribes
of the Pacific Northwest have long
understood the significance of the salmon.
A Yakima legend tells how the people
suffered when they did not care for the fish,
a Squamish legend tells of how different
types of salmon came to the people,
and there is the Haida legend of Salmon Boy,
who learns respect for the salmon from the
salmon themselves. They knew that the
salmon were a gift, that managed fishing
and good stewardship of the land would
ensure their annual return. There are several
examples of salmon-inspired art at the
Seattle Art Museum and the salmon adorn
jewellery, cast glass, painted cedar boxes and
more at the Steinbrueck Native Gallery just
north of Pike Place Market.
The twice-baked almond croissant
at West Seattle’s Bakery Nouveau might
be the city’s best-loved pastry. If you go
on a weekend, be prepared to queue.
www.bakerynouveau.com
Almond croissant dua kali panggang
di Bakery Nouveau, Seattle Barat, sepertinya
merupakan roti terenak di kota ini.
Jika Anda berniat ke sana di akhir pekan,
bersiaplah mengantre.
The role salmon play in our local economy
has been eclipsed by technology giants. But
they remain a critical part of what makes
Seattle…Seattle. Our established local chefs
– people like Tom Douglas and Thierry
Rautureau – adapt their menus to
accommodate the salmon in season.
There’s a welcoming committee for the
return of the salmon every year in a tiny
park above the Fauntleroy ferry dock in
West Seattle. In Issaquah, there’s Salmon
Days, a huge festival with music and art
that celebrates the return of the salmon.
If you’re lucky enough to catch the summer
powwow at Discovery Park in Magnolia,
there will be salmon on the menu, and
salmon represented in the art sold
at the craft booths.
I carry the salmon on my hand in the shape
of a gold ring. It reminds me that to travel
is a great adventure, and also, that there
is just as great an adventure to be found
in returning home.