Garuda Indonesia Colours Magazine May 2018 | Page 91

Travel | Seoul
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1
2
1 Meals are vegetarian,
delicious and served
buffet-style. The only
rule is that you finish
what you take.
2 Kimchi comes in many
forms – this is fermented
radish in Korean chilli paste.
3 All 108 beads of the
prayer necklaces have
significance; making them
is a meditation on its own.
The peace of the teahouse, the relaxation of the sauna and
the echoes of yesterday’s temple-stay are still lingering
within me, helping me to travel home in a state of bliss.
4
Seoul Forest is known as the ‘Central Park of
Seoul’, and there’s truth to that name. It’s not
quite central, but the park is big enough to
get lost in and filled with fun attractions like
its New York counterpart. On my rented
bicycle, I pass by deer, large ponds, even a
butterfly sanctuary. The grass is dotted with
couples and friends having picnics.
This oasis in the city is the perfect place to
spend an afternoon, which is just what I do.
When the sun starts getting low, I finish my
cloud-watching on the grass and pedal for the
entrance. I’ve got one final stop on my tour.
Tradition Tastes Delicious
Nestled in an enclave of Seoul’s oldest
hanok houses, Tteuran teahouse is a secret
sanctuary in Jongno-gu. It’s tricky to find,
but once I’m there, I’m so glad I persevered.
4 Traditional Korean sweets called yumilgwa.
Inside are wood columns supporting an
expertly crafted hanok roof. Thick wooden
tables still look and feel like the trees they
were cut from. Outside is a tranquil garden
3
bursting with flowers in the summer and
draped with picturesque dustings
of snow in the winter.
My host puts down a tray in front of me
with a pot of green tea, a clay cup and a plate
of yumilgwa – a crunchy Korean treat made
with honey and sesame seeds. I have the
feeling of being transported back in time.
It’s like I’m not in the Seoul of 2018, but in
the still-quiet Korea of old, at a country
teahouse fancy enough for royalty.
The tea is smooth and light, and the yumilgwa
has a delicious crunch. But there’s more to
explore on this menu, and I indulge in a bowl
of old-style patbingsu (a popular shaved-ice
dessert with sweet toppings). The food is
clearly made with care, and the clay dishes
make everything feel authentic. But it’s the
traditional décor and garden view that really
make Tteuran special.
As I walk home to the rhythm of K-pop blaring
from storefronts and taxis honking, I notice my
belly isn’t the only thing that’s satisfied. When
spending time in a big city, sometimes you need
an escape. The peace of the teahouse, the
relaxation of the sauna and the echoes of
yesterday’s temple-stay are still lingering within
me, helping me to block out the noise and to
travel home in a state of bliss. South Korea has
shown me her quiet side, and now that I’ve seen
it, I’ll never look at her the same way again.