Garuda Indonesia Colours Magazine March 2019 | Page 102

100
Travel | Sebangau
1
‘ Home
to the largest population of orangutans on the planet,
Sebangau in Kalimantan, Indonesian Borneo, is best explored
by river.
I start my trek into Sebangau National Park
at dusk. The earthy smell of the peat bog
forest rises sharply to greet me as I hold my
torch steady, trying not to trip and fall into
the blackwater swamp on either side of the
narrow boardwalk. I stay close to our guide,
well aware I am in clouded leopard country.
“No talking please, and mind your step,” he
says. “One of these planks could break at any
time, but don’t worry, I am here to help.”
After a couple of minutes, we reach a huge
tree just off the peat bog trail. “This is one
of the spots where our team record nocturnal
animals of the forest,” the guide quietly
explains to our small group. “We might see
a clouded leopard tonight if we are lucky,
although they tend to keep away from
people. The orangutans will already be in
their nests, high up in the trees. Still, we may
see a western tarsier or flying fox.” He goes
on to explain that the park’s 5,300km 2 of
2
peat swamp forests, located in
Central Kalimantan in the Indonesian
part of Borneo, contains many other types
of wildlife, including 116 species of
birds and 166 species of flora.
We continue our walk in silence. I sense
our guide is listening intently to the forest,
the strange language of the insects and
the rustling of leaves that might mean
the presence of a snake or bird.
He occasionally provides hushed
explanations of some of the less familiar
forest dwellers, like the carnivorous pitcher
plant, so named because it resembles 
a jug or pitcher. Insects are captured
in the sticky fluid in the base of the
plant and then digested. Exploring Kalimantan means spending a lot of time on
rivers witnessing traditional community life.
At one point, he stops and motions to us to
listen to the north. Way off in the distance Traditional fishing boats are used to navigate the
waters of Central Kalimantan.