Garuda Indonesia Colours Magazine March 2018 | Page 110

108 Travel | Lembeh “When you go diving in a place like Raja Ampat, you’ll pick a section of reef and just explore – most of the time you aren’t really sure what you’ll find. Here we’ll target a particular species for each dive site – like the Rhinopias or mandarin fish. The big advantage is that photographers know exactly what lens and equipment to use, giving them the chance to capture exactly the photo they want,” he adds. 1 “Divers who come to Lembeh are more like bird watchers – extremely knowledgeable about the different animal species and often come with a detailed list of exactly the ones they want to find,” Simon concludes. The dedication of these ‘underwater bird watchers’ has turned Lembeh into the world’s top destination for ‘critter diving’, but what exactly makes the area so different from other areas of Indonesia? The lives of the people of the Lembeh Strait are focused on the sea, as fisherfolk or working in and around the port city of Bitung... A group of colourful anemonefish dance within the tentacles of their underwater home in the Lembeh Strait. The Lembeh Strait stretches more than 20km, a narrow body of water between mainland Sulawesi and the island of Lembeh itself. Tidal currents from the open Celebes Sea flush the channel with clean seawater, while the nutrient-rich inland waters feed the tiny shrimp and fish at the bottom of the food chain all the way up to larger migratory species like whale sharks, whales and dolphins, which can also be found here sometimes. The lives of the people of the Lembeh Strait are focused on the sea, as fisherfolk or working in and around the port city of Bitung – the arrival point for all shipments bound for Manado and Greater Sulawesi. Perhaps it is the intimate connection of the local people with the Celebes Sea that has made their divemasters some of the best in the world. Through their deep knowledge of the marine life of Lembeh and sharp eyes, photographers across the world have been able to find and photograph some of the most elusive critters ever captured on film or memory card. Three days of exploring Lembeh with Paulus and his fellow guides passes quickly, and by the end I’ve shot more than 2,000 photos of the underwater menagerie we’ve explored here. It’s easy to see why many divers stay here as long as a month – and easy to say that I’m looking forward to experiencing this wonderful and unusual hidden gem of Indonesia again. 1 Veteran scuba guide Paulus Nomang scans the hidden crevices of a large barrel sponge for the tiny invertebrates (critters) that have made Lembeh world-famous among scuba divers and underwater photographers.